looking great. i think we'll definitely try this!
where did you get the topsheets from? directly from isosport? i'm still looking for material sources.

@ben_mtl: is the stuff you use opaque as well?

sounds like this could work...are you using some kind of special topsheet? (sry if this is a stupid question, but i don't really have a clue when it comes to this kinda stuff).
and how does it affect the weight of your ski?

so you just use the fiberglass layer as a topsheet? or do you still put a transparent topsheet on your ski?

i think the ink will fade pretty fast under the influence of the sun, so you should try printing the fiberglass with a laser printer.

@plywood: yeah, you're probably right...we'll do an arched top anyway just to be on the safe side. i just thought that, judging from shopvacs video, the reason for deflection in their molds are the huge hoses. @montucky: thats a great idea for an easy loading cloth press! i'll see if i can come up w...

this might be true for your single ski presses. they just don't show that much deflection due to their narrow width. but in shopvacs video you can see that their double press (we're gonna build snowboards...bad, i know ;) ) bends around the bladders quite a bit along the edges. so i think using smal...

they'r pretty much the same i guess, but i think the company does more industry related stuff, so they offer to produce the foils to custom specs (given that you order large quantities). we're supposed to get their standard foils mainly used for underfloor heating (approx. 60cm width), because that'...

yep, we're going to use heating blankets. we came across a german company that produces carbon heating blankets that are usually used for underfloor heating, but they're able to go up to 140°C (=284°F). we're getting free samples that should be able to go up to 100°C at 230v (don't know the power co...

just a thought on lenghtwise deflection of the molds...maybe it's because your hoses are too big. we're going to use five 3" diameter (4.3" flat, they're called firehose type B in europe) hoses that exceed the width of the mold by approx 1" on each side, which would support the outmos...

that's pretty much what we're building at the moment. just without the mdf strips to make a cambered mold...we just use a flat formwork boards (plywood) to get a flat base between the bindings (very similar to the capita horrorscope snowboards). are the tip and tail blocks in this drawing adjustable...

sounds good hugo! thanks for the tip!

i trim the paper to the line with an exacto knife as well, but i don't glue it to my mdf boards since they're too thick to get a proper surface. i glue it to a thin plywood board that i cut and sand to shape and then use it as a template for my ball bearing router bit. i've found that it's easier to...

just a note for all you european builders looking for a quick heat curing epoxy made for ski/snowboard construction. you should try the sicomin SR8500 / SZ8525 epoxy/hardener combo. readily available all over europe through various distributors (if you have trouble finding one i can give you the con...

awesome, so glad that it worked out for you too! my biggest concern was that the mold could snap in two pieces lenghtwise if you build 2 skis at a time. but i think your 2x6 really helped prevent this. i made a little illustration ;) http://skibuilders.com/cpg/albums/userpics/10013/normal_press.jpg...

i guess you used rice paper for the graphics. well, there's no way to keep the unprinted areas of the paper from turning transparent.
i don't know how it would bond to the epoxy if you printed the rest of the paper in white though.

thx montucky!

i'll get back to you as soon as i have the molds ready...the bladders are up and running already (without any sealant!).
now it's on to the molds.