Printing sidewalls or tip/tail spacers from some tough TPU filament would be an interesting experiment. BASF makes a 95A hardness TPU filament that might be suitable.

Welcome to the forum, Alex. Pretty much all of your questions can be answered by using the search funtion and doing some reading on this forum. A good starting point for TLDR is watching all episodes of Every Third Thursday by Signal Snowboards on youtube here: https://www.youtube.com/results?search...

The brand that is probably most used in the industry is https://www.bcomp.com/products/amplitex/

Sounds like a plan! The worst case would probably be that a solvent in the lacquer dissolves part of the topsheet and leaves you with a gooey mess for a topsheet.

I would suggest you test the lacquer in a small area underneath the bindings where you could easily fix it.

This depends on the type of material that was used as a topsheet. You should try to get some info on what type of plastic the manufacturer used for the topsheet.

Your research is correct, the binding inserts are all M6 standard thread. This is also true for the inserts used for the touring brackets. For splitboards that use screw-in splitboard hardware (tip/tail clips, hooks), the screws used are usually M5, but this may differ from one manufacturer to anoth...

I don't have any experience, but I imagine it should be doable if you use milled reference marks on your cores that allow you to properly align the core on the machine bed.

With a vacuum setup there probably won't be any imprints from the mold as the pressure is pretty low.

PS: for translations deepl.com often works better than google

You mean the hole pattern? If so, it's simple. All holes are 40mm apart on center and for the insert packs with the smaller distance of inserts lengthwise, the distance is cut in half to 20mm on center.

Hope that helps.

Do you measure and control the temperature for your top and bottom heat blanket separately?

I also noticed that your layup is slightly asymmetric on the top and bottom of the core, which might also have an impact.

Nice one, glad you could work it out!

It looks like your core is just too stiff for the feed rollers to push it down into the rather tight looking core profile you are trying to achieve (how long is this core and what are the thicknesses you're aiming for?). You can adjust the tension of the feed rollers on this sander - check the manua...

I always thought that the DI Wire Bender by Pensa Labs might have some potential to be modified into a kinda "cheap" edge bender for ski building.

Check it out here: https://www.pensalabs.com/diwire-pro

www.junksupply.com has wider base material on offer and ships worldwide afaik.

Otherwise I guess it would work to just butt up a couple pieces of base material to get a wider base. A die cut base graphic works the same way. You could do some racing stripe types of patterns for example.

Welcome to the forum! Base material is usually not only sanded, but also plasma or corona treated by the manufacturers to get it to bond properly. I'd suggest you try to get some scraps from other Australian builders and run some adhesion tests with your own abraded/flamed material for comparison. Y...