haha, neither! i know i'm an idiot for not waiting. but still...i had some samples with graphics and one with just the topsheet on top of the fiberglass. all went into the press at once. the epoxy i use cures within 10min at 100°C. when the samples were cool enough to touch i started peeling off th...

chrismp wrote:nope, no gloss layer. it was some regular 90g/m² office printer paper. maybe i didn't give it enough time to fully cure.

How long did you wait until you tried ripping at it? Couple hours or a few days?

hmm, i did the same thing, put a thin layer of epoxy on top of the graphic. but the topsheets on the test pieces pulled off with moderate force. still that coated paper is nice to have since it doesn't turn transparent. that way i don't need to add a layer of white epoxy on my cores. Hmm. Is there ...

damn, that's some nice results! which plotter are you using? i guess it's an inkjet type. i'm fairly new to this all this printing business and the tests i've made so far with regular paper always failed due to delamination. the paper you're using has a special name in german that translates to &qu...

what exactly is this heavy coat paper you're using? is it regular coated inkjet photo paper or something more special? if it's just coated inkjet paper, how do you protect it since topsheets won't bond to it? clear coat? http://h10010.www1.hp.com/wwpc/us/en/sm/WF06c/A10-12771-215512-91088-91088-293...

Heavy Coat Paper. Better print quality then rice paper with a nicer finish product. Just have to trim away any white you don't want.

JackJack wrote:I have been using vertically laminated bamboo and have found that I can make a pretty thick core that is still not stiff enough. What woods are light but stiffer than bamboo?

I use bamboo in all my cores. May I ask what your layup consists of? What your using for glass?

MontuckyMadman wrote:Indeed. If your are in the us cdw in ohio can provide them. Min order is. Around 30 edges but may be different for a custom step. Contact is in the vender thread i believe.

Yea the Min order is 30 edges at $3.50 a piece. I contacted them not long ago.

for what its worth, I have been using the 1000 because I do not have a heated press, and my skis have turned out great so far with zero delams or issues. So if you don't have a heated press, I don't think you'd have any problems with the 1000 hardener.

Haha no midgets. The one ski was the first ski I put together so it was the trial build and I saw things I needed to fix right away. So I didn't see the benefit in making a matching ski for it and wasting more material. Plus I was limited with time as it was my senior project for College. But now I'...

I've layed up 5 skis with the base super sap 100/1000 kit so far and they have all come out great. I had one with delam issues but that was because of my error and not the epoxy. I'll throw up a few pictures when I get out of work but I was able to get the skis out for 2 days on the hill before the ...

Thats awesome odin.

I'm working on getting new tools together and may possibly be comming your way at the end of the summer/early fall for one of these!

Looks great!

any interest in parting with the heat blanket? Let me know.

- Chris

loafskibum wrote:i live in maine. anyone know where i can get a ski press?

I live in Maine as well. I go to school in Orono at UM and am building a press for my senior project. And from what I've seen you'll have to build one as well.

I'm on Windows 7 and don't seem to have any issue with it. I can save/export/open everything just fine.

Do you have the snowcad-x files saved locally or do you start it through firefox each time?