A good range is 45-55. If I press higher than that, I usually end up with texture of the glass showing through the topsheet. 45-50 is just about right for a perfectly flat top, adequate squeeze out, and properly bonded layers.
As Twizz said, leave under pressure until fully cured.
Have Fun!

I have done this layup and had the same issues described above. What works for me is using a composite veneer (bamboo is a common one). If your veneer is wavy, it will lift the top sheet prior to pressing exposing air between the clear and veneer regardless of what you try. You'd think the press wou...

I have the same machine. Paid $1000 last year and it is in great condition. When I was looking around for these machines, they seem to consistently run around 1K. MM is correct in that SVST will have all replacement parts. Make sure the coolant pump is working and all bearings are good. People forge...

Twizz,
I'm blown away. That is very impressive. Love the use of steel. If you're going to be carving away in bamboo, you just did it right. Kudos.

I don't know the Pantone either. I had a bunch of this, but I am all out. I have 3 leftover strips of a forest green that are about 1/2" wide if that helps. I think I have some purple left too. It's kind of a Plum Crazy type color that is really cool looking. I'd have to double check, but I bet...

If you are thinking about 2-4 threads of CF both top and bottom, why not just use a 1 inch strip of the CF either above or below? This would be a lot faster and easier than separating individual strands. Also, a 1 or 2 inch strip of CF in a set of skis adds a lot of life to the flex. Were you thinki...

MontuckyMadman wrote:OMG!
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/show ... g-topsheet
WTF?

That TGR thread is ridiculous. This should be Exhibit A on why this world is so frustrating.

Actually, too much pressure can squeeze out too much epoxy and make the laminate weaker. I press at 50-55 and everything comes out well bonded and flat. I tried going up to 65 in the past and when I did a hard hand flex I could hear a little too much cracking. I think your fiberglass seperation coul...

hey guys! I know your answers are going to be like you need to read and i would just like to say that I have looked through this and found nothing on this subject. so My question is there any place I could by laminates ski cores because I have no tools that would be able to help cut out a core and ...

Good looking press. I would second the thought of shrinking down the underfoot thickness length. I had the great idea to make a powder ski that I thought was going to the bees knees. I made the underfoot thickness 11.5mm for almost 22" which is very comparable to what you are thinking. Couldn't...

My old man always used to say, "if you want something done right...you gotta do it yourself".

khutch5 wrote:I'm planning on putting a second layer of fiberglass between the core and topsheet so that won't work

So, you're going to have two layers of fiberglass above the core? Why? Are you putting two layers below as well?

Definitely shop local whenever and wherever you can. Shipping is often times damn near as much as the material. A local metal shop/supplier will be your best bet. 3/4" aluminum tubing, 1'8" wall thickness is what you want. They will usually cut to lengths you need as well. Having them cut ...

It's not leaving a low spot between where the extra layer of CF starts and the edge? I was having an issue awhile back where I was rabbiting too far in and the base was sucking up in the void between the core and the edge tangs.. It left a few small pockets that took too many passes on the grinder t...

Twizz! Lookin good! Just bend the brakes with vise and a pipe. You can heat them up if you need. If the plastic melts, that's great. I've been replacing the plastic tabs on my brakes with bullet casings. Fill them with JB Weld and push them into place. I've never had so many comments after people se...