Good idea using the finer grits here. I think I read on the forum that 80 grit is best for epoxy. I might be able to plane thinner with a sled also.
I am thinking one of those Japanese fixed knife surfacers would make ideal veneer for skis.

Hi Jono, I have a fully equipped millwork and door shop (my day job) so we resaw our own veneer. Usually for 3mm thick door skins. My door mentality had me thinking a thicker veneer better but now see the reasoning not to. And also good to know the thin is pretty tough with the epoxy. To make it tha...

Thanks for the advice. looks like we better go .5 or less. I suppose with the fiberglass and epoxy under this should be pretty tough.

For splicing veneers in woodworking we use a veneer tape specifically made for this. It is very thin and does not see to leave any indentation while pressing.

We have built some skis using 0.5mm thick plastic topsheet material. I now want to do a Sapelle veneer on the next pair with a spar finish. I would like to go 1 or 1.5mm thick for a little more durability. Is this a bad idea? I searched the forum a little but did not see anything about max thickness...

We had a full carbide tip in the 14" saw at one time and the problem on small saws like that is the blade breaks before the carbide wears out. The carbide impregnated blade has worked well for woodworking but 2 pair of skis wiped it out. Lennox offers a band saw lube that i think could just be ...

Thanks, all good ideas. I will try the bimetal bandsaw blade. That's what we use in the resaw and they are tough. Also not expensive

Hi, First post here. We have a fully equipped millwork shop and building some skis. We have been doing the beveled edge on the shaper and the wood- epoxy- fiberglass cloth construction seems to destroy insert carbide cutters pretty quickly. Likewise we are trimming the pressed skis on a small bandsa...