Search found 105 matches

by 24Dave
Thu Jun 11, 2015 10:32 am
Forum: Ski/Snowboard Design and Layup
Topic: Foam Cores?
Replies: 7
Views: 4436

CHris, It's too heavy at 10lbs, balsa can be lighter and is much stronger. start googling Divinycell, last a foam, these are lighter 2 to 4, 6 pounds a cubic foot, well known about in the composites industry and probably what rossignol has used for so long. Sign foam is probably not engineered for b...
by 24Dave
Mon Apr 27, 2015 7:52 am
Forum: Ski/Snowboard Design and Layup
Topic: splitboard hardware
Replies: 13
Views: 7664

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7702/17264883745_2af64e572c.jpg I filed these out a bit of 1/8th thick 7075 alu from Macmaster-Carr. It helps to make the shape curved instead of straight lines in case they end up lining up not exactly parallel. I start by drilling 1/4 inch holes in the alu to make t...
by 24Dave
Fri Apr 24, 2015 2:01 pm
Forum: Ski/Snowboard Design and Layup
Topic: Thin white layer to stop carbon showing through?
Replies: 9
Views: 5035

good to know it is still a pain to finish clean like kevlar, thanks for posting!
by 24Dave
Tue Apr 21, 2015 3:10 pm
Forum: Ski/Snowboard Design and Layup
Topic: Thin white layer to stop carbon showing through?
Replies: 9
Views: 5035

You might try a thin layer of innegra fabric over your regular composite, supposed to have properties like kevlar, can be sanded without fuzzing and lighter than carbon and it's pretty bright white looking at the SUP boards made out of it
by 24Dave
Thu Apr 16, 2015 12:20 pm
Forum: Ski/Snowboard Design and Layup
Topic: splitboard hardware
Replies: 13
Views: 7664

I really like the Plum hooks but they wont be sold/exported to the USA until next year, not sure what that means for the Aus winter or for export to AUs. I bought some through a e-tailer from spain who is now sold out, except for maybe orange ones. snow.inn I have made my own clips as have some folk...
by 24Dave
Wed Mar 04, 2015 10:01 am
Forum: Ski/Snowboard Design and Layup
Topic: Ramp skis patent for new rapid-prototyping.
Replies: 16
Views: 9911

I'm pretty sure I've seen this done before long before the patent date in two places, by Marcus at Wildschnee and by Phenix snowboards both in making their 3 piece splitboards. I'm not sure how the prior art from europe affects the enforceability of a US patent. But I'd also say it's a patent as a m...
by 24Dave
Fri Feb 27, 2015 11:39 am
Forum: Materials and Supplies
Topic: why Paulownia?
Replies: 12
Views: 8869

observation: I pressed a paulownia split at 50psi, 150 degrees f, 20 minutes laminating at room temp, 1 hr ramp time to 150. I laminated only the base. I noticed that next to the rings in the wood where the pores are larger, the resin had wicked all the way through to the deck up to 8mm thick parts ...
by 24Dave
Fri Feb 27, 2015 10:55 am
Forum: Materials and Supplies
Topic: Black Locust
Replies: 15
Views: 9420

hmm, no bad smell at all from my black locust, routering or sanding. maybe you were talking about the smell of the resin you put the layers together with? I think Ipe stinks pretty bad (and the fine dust should be avoided with a mask), Paulownia has not the best smell and poplar and aspen smell deli...
by 24Dave
Wed Feb 25, 2015 8:46 am
Forum: Materials and Supplies
Topic: Black Locust
Replies: 15
Views: 9420

I stand corrected on the black locust. I've used so much poplar that I was used to how far you can bend it without it shattering. Black Locust is a really burly and easily available sidewall material. It is harder than ash and Maple, tighter grain than hickory, lighter than ipe and not oily so it gl...
by 24Dave
Fri Feb 06, 2015 5:11 pm
Forum: Ski/Snowboard Design and Layup
Topic: Edge / ABS
Replies: 12
Views: 5806

My two cents, ABS is tougher than wood, but a compressed edge into a wood sidewall is easier to repair than cracked up ABS. Mainly because you can bond in new wood so much better that new abs to abs. Also wood is easier to remove, shape in to rebuild a section of core/sidewall. I've successfully rep...
by 24Dave
Mon Jan 12, 2015 6:19 pm
Forum: Equipment and Tools (e.g., ski press, core profiler, etc)
Topic: Ski press - perfectly flat surface
Replies: 17
Views: 11405

I'd make it around 1 to 1.5cm thick. The only problem I could foresee with the thin self-leveling cement would be that if it cracked from flexing, you would want it thick enough to stay in place. It will flex a bit without cracking, but depends on your press stiffness.
by 24Dave
Fri Jan 02, 2015 5:17 pm
Forum: Equipment and Tools (e.g., ski press, core profiler, etc)
Topic: Ski press - perfectly flat surface
Replies: 17
Views: 11405

If it goes bad, self leveling cement is applied very thin like 1/8 to 1/2 inch and has a lot of compressive strength.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzSwhrFb56c

you just need to make a level box and have a good straight edge
by 24Dave
Mon Dec 15, 2014 11:27 am
Forum: Equipment and Tools (e.g., ski press, core profiler, etc)
Topic: Ski press - perfectly flat surface
Replies: 17
Views: 11405

how about pouring a layer of self-leveling concrete over the top of the bottom I beams. I would put some metal screen of lath down first then float the cement. A good mason would do that for cheap if you have no experience. Your mold would then go on top of that layer of cement. I would probably wan...
by 24Dave
Tue Dec 02, 2014 9:26 am
Forum: Equipment and Tools (e.g., ski press, core profiler, etc)
Topic: Bending base with edges
Replies: 61
Views: 35903

thnks Desmond, going to try that on my 3/4 edges

update, worked perfect thanks!
by 24Dave
Wed Oct 29, 2014 8:04 am
Forum: Ski/Snowboard Design and Layup
Topic: powder board for good female snowboarder
Replies: 19
Views: 8442

my 2 cents if it is a board just for powder days, give it a continuous rocker. this will make it a lot fun for a lightweight rider because it will react without having to be pushed. It also gives you some leeway if it comes out a bit stiff. and like Gozaimas said more and longer nose lift