lolol nice and simple way to mesure the flex... nice tip

keep good work

i agree with yoki, this blades can cut very well titanium i saw it in a skifactory i visited

i am a snowboarder but id love to be a skier (part time) to do something like that....

Hi esscher

my experience with that kind of press is horrible. when you pressurize the press you will see your press deflecting...but you can still do some cage to prevent that. just do something like rogue snowboards press, look video in you tube nice prees

hey chubs titanal bond well when sanded and you should put it above wood core, but you must put some fiberglass mask( no roving) above the core then the titanal then a layer of VDS then another mask layer then the fiberglass and finaly top sheet. if you dont have the VDS layer put some mask only, it...

hey chubs, for a alpine board that measures is ok, and you will use some titanal. but a advice use alot of vds ruber is better for absorivng impact on carving and the titanal will give it some strenhg, so... its ok,,, for me. other stuff , but use some good fiberglass for totorsional,,,

hey

they possibly work but you must make a cage for the press

hey go to ths site

linbide.com
they can send it to you for a low price

hey if you are using vacum is better make a rounfing box and put a buf buf warm stuff breader puting air inside, is like people of skimboards do...

i all, i recess my cores after profiling. for that i set a litle table with my router.. tomorow ill post some pictures

cambard

the glue for the wood core doesent make so much diference in weigth, you spend about 30gr of glue to glue the cores, by the way epoxy takes 14 days to cure then you could work in the wood safely...

wood glue is the best option

collin wrote:I've been thinking about balsa too. But why are you guys thinking about end grain balsa, instead of having the grain run the usual way?

Because balsa grains are like honnycomb if you see at the microscoop, so it will do a very nice performance to your skis...

hey igg, put some sheet of metal with 1 mm thick under the tail to reduce 1 mm until you are passsing the router, it works good

i tex, since i try do my first board 2 years ago, i am figthing against flexibility, ehehe, now they are commig ok, but the first 4 boards was to soft, but unbreakable.

Sorry all of you but my epoxy siplyer ask me if i want 15 min epoxy at 120ºC , ill go equip my press with heat and try it, but for shure existes, i already have its charecteristics file.