Just one coat. If you do it right, it should be nice, even and glossy.

Also I find it chips less if you do a shoulder bevel. I use 15 deg sidewall bevel and a 45 deg shoulder bevel. Along that top edge of the sidewall.

copied from an older post in another thread Things I've learned about using an epoxy top over wood veneer after about 80 pair or so. Skim coat your veneer with epoxy during pressing to get a consistent color and improve durability. Epoxy your inlays on the backside of the topsheet to decrease the ch...

To be more clear. I make the center of the sidecut and the height of the camber line up in the same location. I place a line at this point. Folks can use that as a reference for where they want to mount their ski in relation to that mark. If they mount on the line then the boot sole center will be a...

In my experience,

Sharpie will run under clear coat epoxy and maybe poly.

The leafing marker might repel epoxy also.

I just need to get a drag knife set up for my cnc......

I make a mask for every gold/silver/copper leaf application.....time consuming...I need a way to cut that time down

I use gold leaf, works well but time consuming.

The disadvantage to that is if you are a skier with a very narrow stance or build skis for people that tend to ski with a narrow stance, you'll begin to wear thru your veneer and fiberglass and end up with exposed core wood. Having tip spacer there adds a bit more protection to the core in this way....

I think having wood extend into the tipbwith an interlock style shape on the tip assists in making the ski more stiff in the tip vs. having only tip spacer. The wood in the tip is better able to transfer force into the rest of the core instead of having a tip made of only spacer and FG. Saying this,...

I measure this on my initial CAD drawing, so this is from a flat plan view reference. If I am designing a freeride/BC/powder ski I tend to set the waist back at least to the 55% measurement when measured as described above to give the ski a bit more float on powder. If I want a ski that is more on-p...

Those are some good threads. I typically place the waist of the ski somewhere between 53%-56% of the ski when measured from the tip. This depends a lot on what type of ski I'm designing. For powder and freerode umm make the tip a bit longer 54-56% range and for all mountain or carving designs I'll m...

I once had a buddy who I built a ski for who mounted them with binding freedom inserts. He claimed my core was bad because the inserts kept coming out. I took the skis back and made him new ones. Turns out the inserts had not been cleaned after being machined and were contaminated with metal cutting...

� then he really doesn't have anything to complain about

Annealed edge material?

I'm starting to make some great progress in F360. I'm much more comfortable drawing and set up tool paths.

My cnc is getting close to being ready to do some test cuts.

Does anyone have some favorite places they like to buy end mills and bits?