amazing work as always DD

I talked to loctite and 3m today. They both have hot melt that would work... Pricey..

In talking with some industry folks, it seems some of them are using a hot melt glue to bond sidewall to core. There’s lots of different holt melt glue types. I’ve looked around a bit but can’t find any specifics on which product(s) would be good for binding UHMWPE to wood. The ones I’ve see...

Not offended at all. I often think the same thing, that I shouldn’t need the glue.... but for this season that’s where I’m at. After I get thru my builds this year I’ll try to diagnose and improve the suction on my table. Some of that starts with adding a vac gauge to the system to see how m...

I’m using a plenum, sealed with 3 layers of wood glue and an MDF spoil board glued down to it. I fly cut both sides of the MDF prior to flying it down. I have sealed the edges of the spoilboard as well. My cutting surface is 2x8’ I’m using 2 220v vac motors contained in a box with an “air ti...

Yes I hot glue to a spoil board. My vac table is good but I don't get quite enough hold down for my liking while profiling cores, especially with narrower skis. I still use the vac but supplement with hot glue. I may try adding a third vac motor and rebuilding my vac box next season.

for tool paths, yes 3d parallel and 2d country will work well. If you just extrude your entire 3d core model a couple mm wider than it needs to be you'll have a little wiggle room on your centering marks. You'll need to be perfect on your 2d contour cuts but this may depend on the type of tip spacer...

Glad it worked!

A tip on base warp. Warm your base material with your heat blankets on a flat surface to ~120F for 10-15 min to allow it to relax. Let it cool back to room temp before cutting. Plastics like these have a “thermal memory�. Warming them like this takes this out. This was taught to me by a guy (my ...

Any updates? I want to play with titanal.... especially now that I have the CNC and can recess it in the core easily....

I've now eliminated base pins for core/base alignment. Just a note. I never had a failure of the core with base pins but it was one of those things that I never really liked but was easy to use. I now use a external "lock and key" method. I think a couple other guys use this, Montucky mayb...

I've now eliminated base pins for core/base alignment. Just a note. I never had a failure of the core with base pins but it was one of those things that I never really liked but was easy to use. I now use a external "lock and key" method. I think a couple other guys use this, Montucky mayb...

As far as glass goes, if you heat the bottom more than the top you will increase camber. I can see changes with 5-7 deg F differential. I have a fixed camber mold with mix and match tip and tail molds with a running length board. Example: If I get 6 mm of camber on on a 183 cm ski, if I shorten the ...

I don't bother saving brushes when using epoxy. I just buy cheap brushes, which might be more work in the long run because of loose bristles, dirt and stay fibers that end up in the finish no matter how well I clean them before using them... I've tried vacuuming them, using a fan while combing the b...

Entropy CLR is UV stablized.

Parchment paper works great but use spray adhesive to attach it to your top aluminum layer. It will get pulled tight as you apply pressure and minimize bubbles/wrinkles/voids.