MM, I remove 95% of the material on the planer. I then thin out area between the bindings and the tip filler ends. I measure thickness every 10 cm along the length, plot the data, then make adjustments with the sander. Takes three iterations to get a pair of cores very close. After routering for my ...

Those of you who have done wood sidewalls before. Did you have to rough up the core/ sidewall material pretty good to get a good bond between them...? I use Ipe sidewalls on vertical bamboo cores. The sidewall strips are glued to the bamboo using Titebond 1 wood glue. No special prep needed. The Ip...

For Sale: Look PX-12 Demo bindings with 80mm, 100mm, or 120mm wide brake arms. • I have both silver and black models available. • Same design as the Rossignol Axial2 but mounted on adjustable plates. • DIN range is 3.5-12 • Toe moves in 7mm increments, Heel moves in 3mm increments. • Remember, Dyna...

My latest two pairs of skis have very similar dimensions as yours and also have vertical laminated bamboo cores. I added Ipe sidewalls to both. One pair has 10 oz unidirectional E glass and 12 oz biaxial carbon fiber on both sides of the core. These came out very soft but are rock solid in torsion. ...

Here is a good thread about using Solidworks for ski design

http://www.skibuilders.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=3135

-S

Great idea on the boiled linseed oil. I use that as spoke prep when building bicycle wheels. It locks the nipples in place but can still allow for tensioning and wheel truing in the future.

-S

EricW wrote:I'd say ipe or teak

Ipe yes, teak not so good.
Check on any Janka wood hardness scale, teak is relatively soft. Probably not very durable as a ski sidewall.

-S

Ipe for me. Easily found at my local hardwood dealer. I've used Massaranduba on a bunch of skis a few years ago, but I can't find it anymore. I've also used Jatoba once just to try it. I picked up a couple other exotic hardwoods for future use as well. Check out High Mountain Forest Products in Utah...

A few strips of carbon tow will not make them much stiffer. If you use a 2 to 3 inch wide strip of warp unidirectional carbon fiber both above and below the core along with your usual fiberglass layers you will definitely get stiff skis. I've made several skis with your 2-12-2 profile, only varying ...

Here is a good source for suitable vertical natural bamboo flooring planks : http://www.amazon.com/Boedika-9-55135-75-5-Inch-Vertical-Pre-Finished/dp/B00BD2ZH98 Costs about $8.41 per ski. I use this material and achieve great results. After ripping off the tongue and groove features I add a piece of...

Thanks for the input hamerhead. Are you heating top and bottom, bottom only, or no heat?

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Ya, I figured I would probably have to set up a test. But if someone has already made an asymmetrical layup and achieved more or less camber than expected that would be good information. As for carbon fiber CTE my research is inconsistent. Seems like it can be positive or negative depending on the s...

I’ve always used symmetrical composites below and above the core and achieved fine results, typically using triaxial glass and three inch wide strips of 9 oz uni carbon. I only heat from the bottom and the skis remain in the press after curing until the whole thing cools down to ambient temperature....

The art of ski building is finding clever ways to overcome unexpected errors and mishaps. We all make mistakes somewhere in the process, that’s just part of the experience.

Cheers,
-S

I also support the QCM + heat = ski durability. I have achieved similar results using Resin Research Composites Pro epoxy system. So far skis made with RR have been just a durable and maintained their shape as those made with QCM. I really think the key to any epoxy is post-cure heating for a long d...