Hahaha brazen! Only someone who runs a cnc can appreciate your comment. I was making something for my daughter today and had the plywood pop up on one corner and the damn z axis wasn't high enough. Huge gouge along the entire project

I think you are right mm.

Hey, that's nicer then my iron! I have a walmart special.

Hahaha brazen! Only someone who runs a cnc can appreciate your comment. I was making something for my daughter today and had the plywood pop up on one corner and the damn z axis wasn't high enough. Huge gouge along the entire project

I think you are right mm.

Hey Kam, Here is a pic of their core I took at the factory: http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab325/browningboards/157831389_photobucket_27734_.jpg COsurfer wrote: We weren't allowed in the wood shop but I doubt they would be doing flame treating in the wood shop. What do you mean? Neversummer has ...

Do them separate. You will never be able to get the ptex to hold at the tips. There are many strings in this forum about how to attach sidewalls, do some searching.

Freezer....son of a b#$%, just another piece of equipment to buy some day! ahhh probably not. I will try this method soon. I just landed a deal with a local micro brew for a few promo boards to launch a new beer. I thought with this method I could press and make sure the board has no flaws(denting) ...

WOWWWW! Nice job man!

Hey Kam, I didn't see them do any flame treating and they made no mention of it. We weren't allowed in the wood shop but I doubt they would be doing flame treating in the wood shop. We toured all of the stations and no mention of a flame treat. Interesting?!

I have taken a tour of the never summer factory and watched them build boards. I can tell you they do layups the same way most of us do it. They do have a cnc sander to profile their cores with the ptex already attached but other then that there was really nothing special. I am pretty sure I posted ...

Quote from Desi @ Entropy "Re-pressing the board should not be a problem. One thing to keep in mind though is when you want to bond to an already cured surface, its best to do a light sand to the cured surface so that you get good adhesion to the new layer. Epoxy (all glues for that matter) do ...

Hey Rich, thanks for the comments. On the first layup I tried to press with exposing the carbon fiber below and have two wood veneers on each side. As I was trying to sand it flat for poly I sanded through the veneer as you can see at the back of the board. do you have any recommendations on a peel ...

Taking it to the next level! http://vimeo.com/signalsnowboards/duffmckagan

I doubt anyone will have that info. As with everything on this forum give it a try and see how it performs. Adjust as needed. I think you have a great idea. Keep us posted.

Thanks Twizz, thinking in more detail about this process you could make a bunch of blanks that could have any top sheet added to them later. Good for production work

I made a board where the veneered top sheet didnt turn out like I wanted it to so I sanded it down, put on some epoxy and repressed the board with a new top sheet. Came out looking great! Do you think this method is a durable as a typical top sheet included in the layup? Before: http://i876.photobuc...