Hi, the reason it so easily torsioned is the fibre orientation: its 0° and 90°. For torsional rigidity u'd need +45°/-45° fibre orientation. The 0° in your board makes the flex harder, the 90° isn't doing too much at all :) Well, it adds a harder flex crosswise, which is something we don't really ne...

Its 65A (see page before). I ordered some additive for making epoxy flexible, so will do quite similar tests. My plan is to pour the epoxy sidewalls in its end shape already (after the core has been profiled), and also pour the 0.8mm rabbet for the edge as well. So no machining after the pouring wil...

Hi, thinking about pouring sidewalls quite a lot at the moment. One basic thought I have: As PU seems to be quite hard to handle, why not use epoxy? Pure Epoxy will surely be too hard, but there are additives to make it more flexible (e.g. http://shop1.r-g.de/art/130140). Also some extras like cotto...

Well, there is one wooden sidewall I would totally trust: ebony :) I made quite some knife handles of ebony, this stuff isn't impressed by water at all. But will go for some local wood if I decide to try my luck with wooden sidewalls. Or pouring... Well, will see how durable the cap is, and if it is...

@chrismp:

Do you have the 0.5mm or 1mm foil? And is there a pic of your press in action somewhere? Thanks!

@chrismp: thought about this already, might give it a try. From what I read making the rabbet for the edge after attaching the sidewalls usually ends up in the sidewalls being off the woodcore again. So I would have to take away this 0.8mm as well, so the sidewalls will be quite thin when they are p...

Hi MM, I want cap because I can't figure a good way to have precise sidewalls and still have usable planer chips at the same time. If I attach the sidewalls before having the core in the planer all the planer chips are just waste. And for having precise sidewalls after the core has been planed i lac...

Well, for now I got enough of this fabric for another 3 pairs :) But it will be gone soon, will build at least 2 more pairs during summer. Makes the time till october pass much faster!

Success ;) I obviously came back in time, was lucky. What i don't know is if the resin was already cured a bit when we put the pressure back up, only time can tell... if the cap falls away after 2 days of skiing... So, time for pictures: http://www.spame.de/skibau/IMG_0933_klein.JPG The camber/rocke...

chrismp, du bisch n schatz :)

Thats a price i can well live with.

Not so easy with a hungry pregnant girl at home ;)

Hmm, the silicone costs 260€ ;) Damn that's expensive! The site says the rubber can be used up to 80°C. With our current setup we will struggle to get above 65°C anyway, so our amount of heat shouldn't be a problem. But if it ages quickly when used with this heat it doesn't make sense of course. @ch...

Hello, as the cheap vacuum foil I've been using for now has made it to the end of its live, I'm wondering what to use instead. When searching around I found this thick yellow rubber: http://shop1.r-g.de/art/390350 Looks quite nice to me, and as far as I remember OAC used it but then switched to sili...

:( :( :( :( Pressed the Cap today. Everything set up, the fabric pressed nicely to the sides, good pressure, so I put the heat box on and went away. When I came back to check about a good hour later all the pressure was gone. A big hole was in the vacuum foil where I never would have expected it. Pu...

Well that sounds a lot like one of you ski breaks is a bit bent and hits the sidewall because of this. The ski break shouldn't touch the ski at all when moving.