CLR is what you want to use from entropy if you don't have heat in your press. That's what I used before I had heat and it worked great. It will still tint a wee little. (you'll only notice it if you're super anal) but it isn't drastic by any means.

I would seriously reconsider that design. It's not going to hold any amount of pressure and you are looking at a ticking time bomb. Wood under pressure is scary stuff.

It's not that a wood press won't work. It's just no one wants to see you get hurt.

http://thisischrisbagley.com/the-ever-elusive-printer-driver-hack/ UDPS - User Defined Paper Size Utility. AKA "The printer hack" For everyone's future benefit. I've been reluctant to publicly post the link but I think it's been down long enough if the owner of the hack want's it off they ...

I moved it around on my server to my personal.

http://thisischrisbagley.com/the-ever-e ... iver-hack/

Just posted this today in the hopes people will find it. I've had it online for a few years and always just sent the link personally via PM. Now it has it's own nifty post.

If that were me I would carefully take a dremel and cut off the part that has pulled out then just fell it with epoxy. I wouldn't try to pull it out and clean out the gap then refill and push it back in. That doesn't really work that well and It'll most likely cause more problems. skis are lookin go...

Seems like there are a few of us in the process of figuring this out right now too. I'm purchasing inks at the moment. Have a heatblanket ready to go that needs electronics. I'll probably piggy back off my press PID for the time being. going to retrofit my original ski press for sub since it doesn't...

Who actually makes this stuff? I.E. If I liked it... where could one purchase more?

Ah good thinkin! Never thought to just replace a layer with holes!

for me my top layer has the holes. The bottom layer has the gridwork and vac hoses. It didn't make sense to have to recut your gridework every time you you replace the spoil bored.

http://distilleryimage8.ak.instagram.com/ec1f6704a34111e3b8e912e55047faa4_8.jpg I've heard of watered down wood glue before. Others I know use wood sealer or varnish and let it sit but this is only done on the underlying gridwork. Doing it to the spoil board surfaces is a waste of time and material...

Finished that dust shoe awhile back. Finally got to use it for cutting cores yesterday and it works awesome. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-MgccbKN3XnY/U9prQu1RYzI/AAAAAAAAEis/FOSbDezhnTY/w426-h757/14%2B-%2B1.jpg Cost me a whopping $35 in materials and some time. Well worth it. The added airflow...

those are some serious tips/tails!

Made a color chart of my available colors for the Gildan 50/50 blend shirts. I'll also have online ordering available in the next couple of days via my personal website.

Hey Derek, The Flag Logo shirts and the one of me in the red is a cotton poly 50/50 blend. Those shirts are American Apparel which are super comfy and no problem to get. The normal t's are 100% cotton. American Apparel will essentially double the price of t's. They cost a premium but you get quality...

I don't wet the bottom of the core either. Haven't noticed a difference either way except using more resin if you wet the bottom of the core out.

Nice video too