In my current project I was lucky I did it like this: A miscalculation led to a too weak tip. Just put some extra fibreglass over it, now its fine. Thats where the strange looking FG comes from. The tip half of the ski got an extra layer of FG because it was just too soft after the first press. Qui...

Hey all, as I don't want to use sidewalls (don't want to produce waste in the planer, if its only wood its not waste but put to good use) but still want to protect the woodcore, cap is the way to go for me. So, 2 pressing cycles: 1) Normal ski pressing, afterwards routing and sanding the sides and t...

Made a small video of the contact point moving. This ski has a (lets use the K2 expression) all terrain rocker, meaning that the contact points move inward quite a bit when pressure is applied to the ski. Here is the video: http://www.spame.de/skibau/MVI_0913.MOV Tried to capture the camber profile ...

Hi, pressed my first ski with long curing epoxy and top heat only (a heat box, not a blanket). First impression is that it worked well, ski has about 50% of the camber of the mould. The last quite similar ski pressed with normal epoxy lost all of its camber. So I will use long curing epoxy for now -...

Nice Nice Nice. Vids like these make me count the days till October even more ;)

when the weight of the skier/snowboarder is applied the contact points both move inward on the ski making the end contact points inward of the widest point on the ski/snowboard? This is what actually happens with every camber ski. Its not so much about the location of the widest point, but more abo...

20 mins to set up? Im finished in 10 max Wow, then ure way better with the cramps and superglue than me. For me it always ended up having the fingers glued to the edge and the edge not being properly aligned to the base in the sidecut section ;) Do you have full wrap edges? and 10mins per ski or fo...

b2therye wrote:So there is a little gap between the base and the extra pieces of base for the edge to sit?

Yes, I use the ski model (having the same shape as the edge+the base) to make the "glue mould". So when I set up base+edge for gluing it sits firm in there.

Hi, wanted to show you my way of gluing the edges to the base. For me its much easier than fiddling around with the cramps and superglue. First, I use the ski model and a lot of small excess parts of the base and glue them around the the ski model. In here, the base + the edge fits perfectly: http:/...

gozaimaas wrote:Too steep of anose rise will also make it feel grabby as when on edge this area is forced to cut through the snow but is does so at a different angle to the direction of travel.

Nice explanation!

This is one of the main reasons why I haven't tried non-wooden sidewalls so far. The planer produces so much wooden "waste" which can be put to good use, in our case its used for the stove or for the floor of the barn.

Kästle has the same thoughts:

http://www.kaestle-ski.com/en/products/fx/fx94-1947/

By the way, it is quite hard to determine what is meant with "before" "beyond" "after" and so on. Seen from the tip to the tail, from the tail to the tip, from the binding to the ends?
Is there a forum standard about this?

If the widest point of the ski is closer to the binding then the tip contact point (e.g. the ski getting narrower before the tip contact point), the ski will get more hooky and "bumpy". When the ski is flat, every little little irregularity on the ground will push your ski a bit to the lef...

Guess how many times in the last 2 days I had exactly this thought ;)

Will read into building heat blankets,.. The ones I found that can be bought are $$$! Like 500€ for 2 that would fit.

On the other hand: A box for heating stuff up a bit is quite nice, e.g. for waxing skis ;)