I'm talking about the fact that a plastic topsheet serves a purpose, so its important to factor these issues into the mix. My opinions are based on trials. I would start will the company I suggested in the original post - hold on, I didn't include the link, brb. You'll have some sense on the type of...

JS - thanks, but my comments were just a gentle nudge towards a group of products that offer a solution to the central issue i.e. edge strike. I don't discount the product that HeadMonkey uses, I just don't see it as relevant to this particular problem. As you will appreciate, out of the mold, the e...

An additional layer of fiberglass will add 10% to the final pull out strength.

Kevlar is difficult to process and costly. The matrix won't react well to drilling. Goodluck man.

Binding Freedom or Quiver Killers. Maybe the holes can be soaked in penetrating epoxy before final fitting. It would be worth running a test to see how strong the result is likely to be.

It might be worth treating the charts as indicative, given that you will be dealing with local resources and mixing these with other wood species. If I remember rightly, you need to adjust the figures and compensate for different moisture contents in the figures shown. Perhaps it is worth comparing ...

Can you put stops (5mm AL plates) at each end of you mould so that core can be pressed/clipped into place? It would stop any lateral core shift and help position the core if you use inserts.

Creating a jig for the inserts is do-able.

It would help if you were writing a journal and posting pictures in support. The most likely issue is the choice resin, it's expecting heat and pressure to be part of the equation. You need to gain a technical understand why heat and pressure are so important during the cure cycle and why you need t...

I don't want to leave you hanging man! The CF idea needs more work. Tows spread over a larger area perhaps? The rest we've discussed; running a few sample pressing will ensure you are able to define your own parameters. The other issue you may want to consider is how you judge your rebate. If the fi...

It's easier to think in terms of wetting out the fibre rather than saturation. On a layup table, the fibre will just look a little more resin rich with the viscosity of the resin holding everything together. If you are using the Kingwood video as your frame of reference, it's important to note that ...

You are looking for a laminate thickness calculator: http://www.saertex.com/materialrechner/rechnere/rechner.php The proof is maths heavy, so don't worry if you ignore it. What resin ratio you use is something you will need to research further and discuss within the forum. It will vary according to ...

So I recently pointed someone in the direction of this forum ... but I kinda wish I hadn't. Kicking someone when they're feelng down or confused, just not cool.

It is not flat because there is residual tension between the mechanical properties of the laminate. If you know about how a bi-metalic strip works (I'm sure you do) then that is the issue you are dealing with. Curiously, this is not affecting camber .. In the absence of photo's you are making this a...

Thanks chrismp, you explain things better than I.

Can I just check whether the width of the laminates top and bottom are the same or similar? The description of your board seems to suggest otherwise.

The base will become flat when heated because it was flat when it was cured.

Do you know how much epoxy you are losing to the core. Are the core materials top and bottom the same? Have you measured for consistency in the thickness of the laminate?

So you have no lateral shift of the core. You have looked at a faulty board in cross-sections?