I think its aluminum too like mm said. maybe sand and epoxy it to the sidewalls prior to layup?

its getting too warm for me to do anything about it this season but i intend to make a solid mdf mold over the summer. I need to come up with a new way to align my core also. Gluing inserts worked so-so and one pushed part of the core up. By the way, I cut out my board with a jig saw with a blade ma...

How about this? Using it to replace your fiberglass and keeping the uni carbon tape should keep things lighter and keep similar flex. I'm no expert so you should get another opinion on this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321064398349

Thanks for the feedback. Weird thing is the mold is still 100% flat

I've been stalking the forums since around october with an occasional post and finally got around to finishing my mold and pressed this week. I'm a little more than disappointed with some things and think others came out better than planned. The good- topsheet came out clean and the base only had a ...

looking at the struggle a lot of people have finding an affordable base grinder, an idea popped into my head. Couldn't you "grind" your base prior to layup with a belt sander then protect it with vinyl application tape? it would stay flat as long as passes are somewhat even. Only a minor g...

I was looking through the forums and this is almost the same as what I was describing

ive heard of people using modeling clay for the edges of the vacuum film rather than vacuum seal tape. you also might be able to reuse vacuum film if you apply some sort of mold release wax to it and are careful about peeling it off the mold

using inserts or wooden pins seems to be a popular way to match the core and base up perfectly when pressing. it also seems like a lot of people are unhappy with results like base impressions and core shifts if those come off the base material. i figured, that since tip spacer is basically a part of...

hey that's a great idea! I have a few dozen of those lying around because my dad used to repair helicopters

im not in but thought i'd say this. if you have a band saw, you could probably just cut the 12" rolls into any width you wanted

Unfinished is definitely better but you still don't need to use them. To save your planer you could joint the bottom of your cores or saw off the bottom 1/16" on a table saw. If its not perfectly flat after that you should be fine with 1 pass on your planer without too much blade wear

ok thanks. getting a heat blanket is an expensive eventuality for everyone i guess

anybody have any ideas about how well this stuff cures at room temp? ill have it heated in hot water to mix first but just curious about some less pricey epoxy

thanks twizz. I'll be sure to log my progress as soon as I can