Thank you all guys for good advises. You have helped us for real.
If somebody will be in Poland or in Ukraine, write me, and we will drink a couple of glasses of beer))

We have overcame the problem with edge. The problem was in the UV inks and temperature regime as Chris said before. Combination of pressure and temperature destroys bonding effect in the places of protrusions like edges, inserts of some other bulges. Despite this we have reached desired result using...

best answer ever A+

Hello, I am on the way to build sublimation press. First, a bit of reflection on the matter. Having seen pneumatic and vacuum and calender presses in action (I mean that entrepreneurship that provide such services in my country) . I more prefer pneumatic despite the fact that companies that I appeal...

Sorry, didn't understand...

We have two routers. And we use more powerful for beveling sidewalls. We move snowboard not too fast and not too slow against router bit. I will try to move it slower and faster as well)) But if it is normal reaction, how to make surface smooth and shiny? I have tried to use 120 sandpaper and grinds...

I have the similar construction that SHIF has but I can't get sidewall flat and smooth enough. In general it looks good but it has small wavy scarring from router bit. I was told that the reason might be that router bit isn't sharpened in the right way since it comes sharpened for the wood but not f...

Thanks) We are also happy with that and as soon as it is possible want to make a new board !!

chrismp wrote:Did you buy the cores from the wood mill like that? Price?

Chris,
yes we have agreed that sawmill will glue and cut boards for us. One board costs aprox 5-6$.
Pine is twice cheaper.

Finally we found a good wood. On the left is pine and on the right is spruce. Pine is a bit heavier. After some experiments we will check mechanical characteristics. http://s28.postimg.org/cqhqfl7q1/D533_B36014410_E7_B4_F3_C9252_BEE8_E2_D338_DF0210_E12_E740.jpg the most pleasant thing is that the pr...

It is definitely better then UV variant since I can't observe places of delamination. But you are right I can make final decision after I will grind the base. If so, sammer and gaw va might be right and reason may be in temperature and pressure.

pmg wrote:Way number 3: Use black base. No bonding problems due to ink, no VDS and teeth visible, easy to see if the base lacks wax, easy to repair.

Nice idea)) have already done it))

Actually we have tried sublimation and the result was much better. But we have got next problem. The edge teeth and VDS rubber becomes visible. http://s22.postimg.org/jjr9r1jwd/CD34056_CAC2_CC51_AB9_C3_F1_A843595_B64_D03_D53_E8_DD1_AD38.jpg I have red one post dedicated to this problem http://www.sk...

Chuck both thermocouples in a pot of water and bring it to boil. Water boils at 100'C so easy simple check and both should read exactly the same. You did also mention you have no real resin waste after press, are you actually getting a decent amount of squeeze out? How big are your press bladders? ...

MontuckyMadman wrote:Where do u put the thermocouple?

We put thermocouple in between aluminium sheets that cover heat blanket.
I think that temperature of cassettes at least the same.
But we want to buy independent thermometer and check exact temperature in between cassettes.