Wow, i never have although I;m not sure why...only takes a few extra seconds.

I'm pretty sure it is flame treated, at least from Durasurf. I've asked this question at least once.

This is a great time to considor a cheap router table if you don;t already have one. You can set up a fence, then jsut run the core+sidewall against it.

Easy as pie and doesn;t seem to pull the sidewall too hard (i just superglue mine).

End dikes have been my secret weapon for a while, but i saw that vid too and wondered if that was a manafactured tool. I was thinking of trying it but dremeling out both sides so that that they match each other. Also, a friend told me that he thouhgt there was HVAC crimping tool that looks like this...

I'm not sure that's a great idea. I like the epoxy to melt and ozze down with gravity, to settle in the edges and on the base hwich where i worry most about delams. Going upside down seems like it woudl make that owrse, and not rerally give you any advantage. Now, glueing your edges upside down?.......

Nope, it's grams (g) not gallons (G).

I've started making fingerboard snowboards. This shit is hot, people. Nothing says "craftsmanship" like bending and gluing a 3cm long edge.

I used to stress this, but then I rwealized I could barely notice the difference at all by hand or eye, and of course not at all after the base grind.

I thought I responded to this, but it doesn;t seem to be around anymore. I guess that wasn;t very proffesional of me.

I hope i'm not being unproffesional by saying I wasn;t particularly dissapointed with the cost, considering my small order.

Dude, that's your tagline now?

Somebody strip Montuckymadman of his medal.

Jsut called Greg, set up an account, and was told my order (small; 5g of epoxy plus 1g of hardener) will ship today. Cost seems to be close to what it was with QCM.

Doesn;t seem to be any interruption of service. Thank god, because i really felt like I turned a corner when I switched to QCM.

Just tried this on a dry run. It's going to work like a charm, I can tell.

I'm blushing when I think how much time i spent on mediocre results. Someone give Montuckymadman a medal.

Falls, I think we're on the same page and are saying that the flood coat acts as a "bridge" between the epoxy and the plastic base (?). However, I gotta think there must be some infiltration of the palstic from the epoxy, as well.

Either way, treatment is key.

Lat season i saw (not in the flesh) some iterations of the Chewgash that had a hole cut-out of the tail to increase tail drop. It looked beautiful, though I did think it might cause some drag. This would be a nightmare splitboard to tour on, but with a few design tweaks it might could be manageable....

I've often wondered about this.... So, if you are flood coating your bases, how does the flood coat affect the flame-treatment of the UHMW? Assuming you're using an expoyable catalyst in the flood coat ink, does the flame treatment allow the ink to adhere to the base, then the epoxy adheres to the i...

Wow. Just noticed this thread, cast my vote, and had an "ah-ha!" moment. Actually, more like an "oh, shit" moment. The hours I've spent re-doing edges..... Will try this on my very next attempt. Another interesting poll would be to see how many bend edges by hand. I stressed this...

hugocacola wrote:Hello Guys

....
recently i start doing Sublimation on clear base material, works great


......
Best

Maybe we shoud move this another page, but i woudl love to know how you are sublimating graphics onto clear UHMW and getting good results...I've have no luck at all with this!