I have 23 and a half rolls of .20mm x 10mm VDS, each 70 meters long, and they’re all for sale. Typical VDS is 25mm wide, but this is just 10mm wide. Still plenty wide enough to cover edges, but requires a little more skill during layup to ensure the rubber stays on top of the edges. I’m selling it f...

That’s the going rate for liability insurance for this kind of thing. You won’t find it lower, to my knowledge. Check out S-Corporations vs. LLC’s as well. Consult an attorney. I’m not going to tell you what I do because I wouldn’t want anyone to construe it as any kind of real advice in this matter...

The extra thick piece of aluminum is 1/4" thick, and the length and width of the camber block. It's an experiment. It's there to smooth out the top of the camber block, as an alternative to sanding it perfectly smooth. Even though the ribs are CNC cut, they're hard to line up and get perfect, s...

Heliski989, I think you may have missed my point. I'm not trying to say you shouldn't use a great bit and get the best sidewall finish you can. I'm suggesting you can get exactly what you want, cheaper and more versatile, right now. I think you can anyway… I might be wrong. Check it out and see for ...

I'm glad you guys are finding this helpful. It's my pleasure... honestly.

Doughboy, glad you got hooked up with Alaskan. Those guys are great.

ben_mtl wrote:Here are the promised pics :

Nice work.

To everyone using a braised bit with a trimmer: I am just curious, but how many skis can you trim with that tool before you have to sharpen or replace it? in my experience you can trim 25 or so sidewalls, so 6 pair of skis or 12 snowboards. if you replace this tool at a cost of $25/ea that puts you...

I run the trimmer just past the effective edge, and gently pull it away from the edge as I get to the end, and gently work it in as I approach. I leave the nose and tail pretty much straight, and I blend the bevel from where the router stops to the nose/tail by hand with a file and a bit of sand pap...

Ill have a quote today. he said for 1 it would be $250/ea, but the cost would drop with the more we buy. im hoping there around $175/ea for 5 or more. This is by no means for some one who wants to build 1 or 2 sticks. although it will increase quality on those 2 sticks should you want one. This too...

Correct Falls.

I don’t believe you’ll see any indentation from .2mm (0.008”) Kevlar string. This will blend right in with your bottom glass layer and you won’t even know it’s there from the outside. The unidirectional Kevlar tape I use is 0.010” dry and I get no indentation from that. (This stuff: http://www.happy...

falls wrote:and no indentation on base of board (probably obviously not as otherwise you wouldn't do it like that)?

No.

falls wrote:how thick aluminium are you using in your lower cassete layer?
thanks

0.032". http://www.happymonkeysnowboards.com/Mo ... nstruction

falls wrote:Thanks mike
where do you place the TC probe in your layup. Between the blanket and cassette like doughboy?

Yes between the blanket and the cassette, dead center of the board.

I've made more updates to Making a Monkey : Fibers, Epoxy, the final steps to prepare for lamination, added a new sub-section called Builders Corner , with information on routers, bits, trimming sidewalls, press heat control, and thermocouples. Builders Corner also includes something that I hope man...

Some pics that might help. Part #'s here: http://www.happymonkeysnowboards.com/MonkeyWiki/index.php?title=Press_heat_control_and_thermocouples#Thermocouples https://storage.googleapis.com/mmm-public/stable-imgs/Press_Thermo70.JPG https://storage.googleapis.com/mmm-public/stable-imgs/Press_Thermo84.J...