I built a wood press that is reinforced with metal. It does not noticeably deform when I press at 50psi. Based on the specs for threaded rods in terms of stretching and shearing I could go up to 80-90 psi if I wanted to. It has been through over 20 cycles and shows no signs of fatigue. I used two 4&...

Hi skimakermark, In general, when a lay up list says "22oz fiberglass" it means 1 layer of that type of fiberglass each time it is listed. Most of the time builders use the same amount of glass on either side of the core. I'm not sure how thick the fiberglass layers are after pressing but ...

G-man used strip type heaters in his press.
http://www.skibuilders.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=356
Lennart also used a similar set up.
http://www.skibuilders.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=240
http://www.wennstrom.se/New%20skis.htm

During lay up it is easier to have the unplaned side down. This allows more of the core to stay in contact with the lower layers before going in the press. It is also easier to rout out the flat unplaned side of the core to allow for the edge flanges. edit: Hot glue is important. I lost a core (core...

I make a 1/2 template out of mdf. I use a 1"x8" piece of mdf to make the template. I use the straight edge of this mdf board as the centerline of the whole template. I use a thin strip of mdf to follow points measured from the centerline. I screw this strip down and follow it with a router...

If your hose develops a leak then a small compressor could overheat and burn out as it tries to keep the hose inflated. Keep an eye out for leaks and you'll be fine.

Did you use a regular printer for your image? What kind of ink? Do you think it will fade from UV exposure?

I have a large printer at work but I've not used it for fear that the ink would quickly fade.

I too tend to make my skis too stiff. On my next pair I'm using 20oz on the bottom and then 11 oz biax (45/45)on top. I'm trying to use the same core profile as I dial in what happens with different glass weights. My last pair used 39oz on the bottom with 20 oz on top and they ended up being as stif...

I use a single arc mostly because I'm still waiting for my cnc machine to be finished by odin. When I get a cnc machine I want to experiment with radii that change slightly and continuously from tail to tip. I envision having the radius get smaller towards the tip. Right now my skis are made complet...

I've removed veneer topsheets/composite layer on skis that came out too stiff. I used a thickness planer to remove the middle section of the ski. I then used a belt sander to get rid of the rest of the topsheet/composites on the tips/tails. This method took part of the core in the middle section and...

I think all gs skis have a 21m turning radius nowadays. I have 2 pairs of gs skis. The 188cm k2 mach gs from about 9 years ago are fairly soft from use but I'm not sure they were ever that stiff. I use these for early season recreational/training type skiing. They can be carved and will slide as wel...

I usually use maple veneer for my topsheets (1/42"). I finish them with 2-3 coats of spar urethane varnish. Spar varnish blocks UV radiation. I use the water based type, it sprays on splotchy but dries smooth. The edges of the topsheet can get beat up a little but nothing unusual for a ski. Fre...

I've used maple and ash veneers for my top sheets. They were about 1/42" thick which is about 3/5mm. I would think that 3mm veneer could be heavy, could soak up a ton of epoxy and would almost certainly have an impact on stiffness. If you subtracted core material to compensate for veneer thickn...

K2's have carbon top and bottom, but its woven into the whole seamless fiberglass sleeve around the core, Are you referring to the carbon stringers running down the top of the cores I see in lots of K2 skis from the past 10 years or so? Does this mean there is another stringer under these cores too...

I use a higher quality dewalt jig saw with a combo blade to remove flash. I go through 1 blade per ski. The ski is upside down when I do this so I can see the edge as I cut. I then clamp the ski on its side and use a belt sander to sand out any protruding sidewall. Because I use a beveled router bit...