Search found 124 matches

by 24Dave
Fri Jan 02, 2015 5:17 pm
Forum: Equipment and Tools (e.g., ski press, core profiler, etc)
Topic: Ski press - perfectly flat surface
Replies: 17
Views: 17463

If it goes bad, self leveling cement is applied very thin like 1/8 to 1/2 inch and has a lot of compressive strength.



you just need to make a level box and have a good straight edge
by 24Dave
Mon Dec 15, 2014 11:27 am
Forum: Equipment and Tools (e.g., ski press, core profiler, etc)
Topic: Ski press - perfectly flat surface
Replies: 17
Views: 17463

how about pouring a layer of self-leveling concrete over the top of the bottom I beams. I would put some metal screen of lath down first then float the cement. A good mason would do that for cheap if you have no experience. Your mold would then go on top of that layer of cement. I would probably wan...
by 24Dave
Tue Dec 02, 2014 9:26 am
Forum: Equipment and Tools (e.g., ski press, core profiler, etc)
Topic: Bending base with edges
Replies: 61
Views: 50499

thnks Desmond, going to try that on my 3/4 edges

update, worked perfect thanks!
by 24Dave
Wed Oct 29, 2014 8:04 am
Forum: Ski/Snowboard Design and Layup
Topic: powder board for good female snowboarder
Replies: 19
Views: 13859

my 2 cents if it is a board just for powder days, give it a continuous rocker. this will make it a lot fun for a lightweight rider because it will react without having to be pushed. It also gives you some leeway if it comes out a bit stiff. and like Gozaimas said more and longer nose lift
by 24Dave
Fri Oct 17, 2014 4:34 pm
Forum: Ski/Snowboard Design and Layup
Topic: honeycomb
Replies: 7
Views: 7480

My two cents: I'd try to round the beginning and end of the honeycomb portions so the board doesn't have easy points to break on. try to make them ovals or diamond shaped. another idea is to use paulownia and channel it like fischer skis do for the Hannibal and race ski with a biscuit joiner. https:...
by 24Dave
Thu Oct 16, 2014 8:43 am
Forum: Materials and Supplies
Topic: why Paulownia?
Replies: 12
Views: 15084

If you haven't used it, I'd describe it as half way between poplar/aspen and balsa. I think it's a good conservative choice if you are entertaining thoughts of lightening cores with foam stringers, honeycomb, channeling or end grain balsa as part of your cores. It's notably soft, compressing easily ...
by 24Dave
Tue Sep 02, 2014 8:19 am
Forum: Materials and Supplies
Topic: choice of wood
Replies: 23
Views: 20752

I really like how poplar cores will bend a long way before breaking. Although it doesn't resist edge compression very well. Here is an interesting read on Ash vs. Maple for supporting edges from the baseball world, seems like ash is more straight grained, and maple may be more subject to having weak...
by 24Dave
Tue Sep 02, 2014 8:06 am
Forum: Materials and Supplies
Topic: Black Locust
Replies: 15
Views: 14576

I made a strip of Black locust to bond along the outside edges of a core that I am building and I really didn't like how the wood would be really stiff then shatter once you bent it a bit. It is very dense and of course handles moisture well, but the particular stock I have just seems too brittle to...
by 24Dave
Tue Aug 05, 2014 11:07 am
Forum: Commercial postings
Topic: New load of Isosport nylon
Replies: 14
Views: 14158

ive gotten samples of the clear gloss nylon, and it basically looks like whatever is underneath it was clear coated and polished and polished and polished and polished. If I were to veneer under it, i would also throw at least a thin layer of fiberglass between the veneer and the topsheet. Any low ...
by 24Dave
Fri Nov 29, 2013 8:04 am
Forum: Ski/Snowboard Design and Layup
Topic: Bending and gluing edges
Replies: 17
Views: 23922

I grabbed two of the Husky brand 7" end nippers from Home Depot which worked great. I had to grind the handles down a little so they would close enough. I ground the curved side with a 4" angle grinder that bends a little shallower radius because I jiggled a little while grinding, but it w...
by 24Dave
Fri Aug 30, 2013 2:05 pm
Forum: Materials and Supplies
Topic: Core Question
Replies: 9
Views: 10205

I have not had problems with snowboard inserts in Poplar even with a board over a decade old and still kicking. I do think it it more susceptible to having an edge compress into it when carving on rock than harder woods like maple, Ash, locust, hickory etc. or ABS over the edges
by 24Dave
Tue Jul 02, 2013 8:43 am
Forum: Ski/Snowboard Design and Layup
Topic: Idea for a layup, involving carbon and aramid
Replies: 22
Views: 13693

I have made boards with kevlar on the bottom, it is hard to get a good finish if the fibers go out to the edge of the board. Best approach is to soak fuzzy sanded kevlar ends with super glue, then cut with a razor blade using a sawing motion, not just pushing the blade. The unique thing about kevlar...
by 24Dave
Wed Mar 27, 2013 2:57 pm
Forum: Ski/Snowboard Design and Layup
Topic: preventing veneer top-sheet from edge abuse
Replies: 10
Views: 6328

anyone ever put a strip of guitar purfling or banding on the top corner, its just a thin strip of abs. But perhaps avoiding abs is the original idea. Some are made out of dense hardwoods also like blood wood, koa, cocobolo
by 24Dave
Mon Mar 18, 2013 11:19 am
Forum: Ski/Snowboard Design and Layup
Topic: Core to Tip fill transition for snowboards
Replies: 9
Views: 8778

Why use a plastic tip filler in the first place? Your nose curve looks really shallow, gradual like it wouldn't be hard to press and have it stay.
by 24Dave
Sat Feb 18, 2012 3:51 am
Forum: Equipment and Tools (e.g., ski press, core profiler, etc)
Topic: Wood Press
Replies: 20
Views: 11308

A little framer advice for wood presses, Don't start with OSB, if you were going to use wood beams use 11 7/8 wide or larger Microlam beams often called lvl's, But I would recommend welded steel holding them all together at either end and the middle. The only real benefit might be that you can unsta...