Sorry we've been having trouble keeping these in stock. We are getting shorted on every order and they don't seem to care too much about the little guys. I'm hoping to get more in the next couple of weeks.

-kelvin

a small change in thickness makes a big change in stiffness. 10mm is pretty thin and would probably make a soft ski. But for powder, it might be good. One thing to watch for is that your router bridge is not flexing. As you push down on the router, it could flex the bridge and cause different thickn...

G-man, very nice work. Looks awesome. Would love to see it in action. I've gotten carbide bits from centurion tools ( http://www.centuriontools.com/ ) and they have been very good quality and helpful. Here is a link to a chipload calculator. I've burnt up a few bits before figuring this out. http://...

The 'mask' mentioned to improve bonding is called fiberglass veil. It is very thin.

http://www.fibreglast.com/showproducts- ... es-13.html

-kelvin

Looks a bit scary. You would have to be very very careful that the temp is controlled tightly. The temp immediately around the elements would be much higher than the average temp and could easily start something on fire. Also, I think it is best to have the heating mechanism close to the skis. With ...

If I remember correctly, Harrison's skis were sublimated by SBM. The picture is on the front page. They look really good.
-kelvin

Lots of good suggestion in the above replies. I would also add: make sure your router bridge is very rigid. Even a little flex will cause the cores to be uneven. Cut less material per pass. It looks like your router is 'walking' in one of your pics. Make sure you cut against the rotation of the bit....

There is a gap between the two hoses. However, each hose is wide enough to cover a ski.

-kelvin

Seems like others have the same issue.
http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_sn ... pic=9150.0

The green is abraded on both sides, but is waxed on one side. If you look at both sides carefully, the waxed side should be a little shinier. Also the non-waxed side has some writing on it. The light blue base material we have is abraded both sides. It doesn't matter what side you use. Sorry for the...

Once setup, it took about 20 minutes to profile a core. I'm pretty sure I can shave off quite a bit of time by optimizing the cuts though.

I've bought from Veneer supplies (http://www.veneersupplies.com/) and they have been good.

I just get whatever thickness they have. I don't think it makes too much of a difference.

-kelvin

I made a couple of new skis this weekend with the help of the CNC and a couple of friends. I used the CNC to cut the bases and profile the core. It is much more accurate than doing it by hand and the bases come out super smooth. I didn't have time to make the core blanks, so I went to Home Depot and...

I use this $20 scale from Harbor freight. Works pretty well. Sometimes they have 50% off sales and I think I got it for $10. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=95364 I also got this $7 infrared thermometer, that isn't too bad. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displ...

I've used wood tips and sidewalls on my last few pairs of skis and they work great. I just profile the core and it is ready to go. No need to prebend. After finishing, I put some varnish on the wood. I've been skiing the 'little wings' a lot for over a year and they are holding up well. The tips and...