Are you using heat? Edited to ask; Did you flame your sidewalls? This could be an issue. But still think it's heat! sam Yes, we use heat. Also we flame our sidewalls and tip/tail spacer prior to layup. We can't work without heat since we have non heated premise. Unfortunately our epoxy is intended ...

Anyway all of those defective snowboards will be tested under high normal force, twisting and some other test to see ultimate strength conditions.
There are no waste of materials))))

Regarding mineral spirits, we had never problems with them. Just now we found out that they have harmful effect. UV inks work good at least without heat blankets. We have already checked it when we did our very first snowboard. We have applied UV it to the topsheet. No delamination. Also we applied ...

MadRussian wrote:I don't do rabbet and have no problems

What kind of printing do you use?

Definitely rabbet decreases pressure of sidewall and core on the edge. Today we will make an experiment with sublimated base and clear base to eliminate variant with inks.

I do understand how to apply trench for snowboards or skies without sidewalls, but I don't understand how to make it in the place of tip and tail.

Did you rabbet the core for edge tine? Also in your layup, take the time to make sure there is a generous amount of epoxy filling the teeth areas of your edge. The one thing that we haven't try yet is rabbet. On most videos I haven't seen that people make rabbet. As for filling teeth, now we are ov...

Also when we did first trial we haven't put inserts deep enough so that a head of the insert was a little protruded beyond. As a result we saw our inserts on the base. It meant that inks in that place were dissolved.


may be reason is the same.

Vacuum? = Not enough pressure. Pnematic = to kuch and too slow a ure no resin. Did you rabbet the core for edge tine? We use pneumatic press and work under 60 psi (4 atm or bar). Press reaches working pressure during half a minute. Actually I never pinpoint it. By the rabbet you mean trench for edg...

Don't put anything on the VDS. By "white spirits" do you mean Mineral spirits? I would not put anything on the VDS. Keep it clean handle it with gloves and put it in the lay up as is. Also don't sand off the primer on the edge. If it shows some light rust you can sand that lightly but don...

Did you put epoxy in between the edges and the vds? Looks to me as if there never was some... When we did the first board we didn't pay too much attention to the epoxy in between edge teeth and VDS rubber. Just spread the epoxy uniformly, then soaked strips of VDS rubber in remaining epoxy and put ...

Hi there, already did two boards with transparent base and have faced strange problem. In the place where edge is located is no bonding with fiberglass. Seems like air holds there. Have no idea what is it. May be I had same problems with colored base material, but I could not see it. Prior to attach...

I think that 1500-2000 €/ m3 of high quality dry wood is normal price at least here. if you think how much you need? I pay app. 3-4 € / meter for the knotless aspen. I think it is reasonable price and there is not much waste. For Europe it might be normal, but for us it is very high price. In compa...

chrismp wrote:Just FYI, we pay 700-800 EUR/m3 for spruce in great quality directly from the sawmill. The same wood is used by piano makers.

What about 2000 EUR?))) It that I was proposed. Talking about poplar.

heke wrote:Have you try local work shops that make furniture? Normally they have good wood quality.

As for poplar, I have googled word "poplar" and have called each company that were selling it. I will do it again for spruce and fir.