HB (Hansen Boards)

[Akiwi]

I was pretty happy with the results.
Got another board about ready to press. Will try to do that on Tuesday night.
Made a few changes to the design, and hope it will turn out even better than my first one did.

Edges are about 100 times better than the first try. Acutally I wasn't intending to do a full wrap, but I forgot when I cut out my base.. so was forced to do the fiddly edge bending crap.

Then I'll start working on a pair of skis.

[Akiwi]

Next board is in the press.


Made a few changes to the design.
Better curve for the sidecut.
Wider core so the edges dont stick out so far.. should give better edge control.
New tip shapes.
Better core profiling.. thinner tip and tail and flatter.
Longer rocker area forwards, shorter rocker at the back.
Less camber.
A new wider veneer.

I didn't find a solution to keeping the board flat though. I guess we will see when it comes out.

Now the loong wait till it cures.
My epoxy recommends 24 hours at 20 degrees, then cook it a bit for 12 hours.

So 2 days till I can look.

Yawn.

[chrislandy]

Nice, but with regard to the cure time: Do your own testing on the resin you use but I tested mine (lab tested) with different cure cycles and there is essentially no difference (or slightly better properties) from cooking straight away rather than waiting the 24hrs then cooking.

I found a dwell at 40deg for an hour or so then raising to 80deg for 8hrs got me a good void free laminate plus the strengths I wanted - but obviously thats my resin that I use. It allows the resin to reduce viscosity and flow before going off, that way you get better consolidation from the vacuum.

[Akiwi]

Nice, but with regard to the cure time: Do your own testing on the resin you use but I tested mine (lab tested) with different cure cycles and there is essentially no difference (or slightly better properties) from cooking straight away rather than waiting the 24hrs then cooking.

I found a dwell at 40deg for an hour or so then raising to 80deg for 8hrs got me a good void free laminate plus the strengths I wanted - but obviously thats my resin that I use. It allows the resin to reduce viscosity and flow before going off, that way you get better consolidation from the vacuum.

In the Datasheet for the epoxy I use it sais that the optimal hardness is reached after 7 days at 23 degrees.
However this can be shortened and they recommend.
Optimal Temperature cycle: 24h/23°C + 5h bei 60°C + 6h bei 80°C.
In the past I have normally just cooked things for a few hours and they seem pretty hard. I haven't any idea how to do a laboratory test of what works best... Don't have the motivation either.
I'll just cook things for a few hours when I get home tonight, then take it out of the bag and see what it looks like. It won't be used for a few weeks so I guess it is not so critical.

[mammuth]

Its the hp stuff, isnt it?

[Akiwi]

Its the hp stuff, isnt it?

Yep. HP-E45KL
has a 45 minute pot life
is middle viscous.

I have been using the stuff for over a year now and am quite comfortable with it.

What are you / others using in Europe?

[mammuth]

This stuff you dont have to cure afterwards, it will be fine at room temp. Dont like the viscosity for vacuum. But its a good allround resin and its clear.
Just wait a few days (optimum 1 week) before you cut and trim your board.

The hpe3000 is nice for vacuum, but this one needs some heat. If you build a hot box 55-60 degrees are fine, i used it with a few boards. Longer pot time too which is very nice if you have to fiddle with vacuum bag and so on...

You can build a ghetto box out of styropor and put a normal electric radiator (the old oil filled ones) underneath your table. with 2000 watts you reach 55-60 degrees, my radiator had around 90 degrees which is ok for oil filled

But all this was too much fiddling around for me so im building my 1.5ton press monster right now

[pmg]

I heat my hot Box with normal light bulbs (Glühbirnen)... why? this way its easy to more or less evenly distribute the heat, and you can dim them. So I give them full power until they reach the temp I want, then I dim them to keep the temp.

[Akiwi]

This stuff you dont have to cure afterwards, it will be fine at room temp. Dont like the viscosity for vacuum. But its a good allround resin and its clear.
Just wait a few days (optimum 1 week) before you cut and trim your board.

The hpe3000 is nice for vacuum, but this one needs some heat. If you build a hot box 55-60 degrees are fine, i used it with a few boards. Longer pot time too which is very nice if you have to fiddle with vacuum bag and so on...

You can build a ghetto box out of styropor and put a normal electric radiator (the old oil filled ones) underneath your table. with 2000 watts you reach 55-60 degrees, my radiator had around 90 degrees which is ok for oil filled

But all this was too much fiddling around for me so im building my 1.5ton press monster right now

WHy don't you like it for vacuum?
I already have a styropor Ghetto Box. I heat it with a cheap fan heater... Haven't measured what temperature it gets to.

[mammuth]

Was little bit too fast for me (on my vaac setup i needed too much time to bag it) and the viscosity was too thick. Didnt soak well enough with triax and small bubbles remained... Like one technican from hp said: you have to slam it into the glass I was working transparent so it was more obvious. Also more tiny bubbles got caught on the edges (but i was always close to the 45min when applying the vacuum).

[Hannes]

Which resin are you using now?
Hpe 3000?

[mammuth]

I used the 3000. Will propably switch to something else cause i have heat blankets now.

[Akiwi]

Was little bit too fast for me (on my vaac setup i needed too much time to bag it) and the viscosity was too thick. Didnt soak well enough with triax and small bubbles remained... Like one technican from hp said: you have to slam it into the glass I was working transparent so it was more obvious. Also more tiny bubbles got caught on the edges (but i was always close to the 45min when applying the vacuum).

Maybe I'll try the Hpe 3000 next time.
I have optimized my workflow quite well I think, but have to admit I don't set a timer to check if I go over 45 minutes.

However I have found a vlies roller makes applying / spreading the epoxy very easy. I don't think I have any problem with bubbles, however I nearly always have a veneer topsheet, so can't see inside. And getting everything into and sealing the bag only takes about 2 minutes maximum.

To seal the bags I use a clip made with a broom handle and an electrical cable duct pipe which I cut to a C form. Closing and sealing the bag only takes a few seconds.

[chrislandy]

In the Datasheet for the epoxy I use it sais that the optimal hardness is reached after 7 days at 23 degrees.
However this can be shortened and they recommend.
Optimal Temperature cycle: 24h/23°C + 5h bei 60°C + 6h bei 80°C.
In the past I have normally just cooked things for a few hours and they seem pretty hard. I haven't any idea how to do a laboratory test of what works best... Don't have the motivation either.
I'll just cook things for a few hours when I get home tonight, then take it out of the bag and see what it looks like. It won't be used for a few weeks so I guess it is not so critical.

That's pretty much what mine say too but when I build the boards I can cook one during the day, lay up another can cook one overnight i.e. 12 hr heat-cook-cool cycle with no faffing around waiting 24hrs before postcuring. (Huntsman LY/HY 5052 resin) - I usually have a 2-3hr potlife but quite a complex layup so typically use 1-1.5hrs in layup and gives me time to bag it up and in the oven

[Hannes]

I am using SuperSap CLR/CLS. And I always need the 40 minutes for one Ski. Somehow I need to become faster.