HB (Hansen Boards)

Document your personal work here. Show photos, movies, and share your secrets.

Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp

User avatar
Akiwi
Posts: 370
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2015 7:48 am
Location: Olching (Near Munich) Germany

Post by Akiwi »

ANyway I made a couple of new cores so I can start on a new pair.
Firstly I cut a bunch of steel and drilled holes in it so I could use the bolts to pull the wood together.
Seems to make a nice even preasure, and works as a cheaper alternative to buying loads of huge G Clamps.
Image
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
pmg
Posts: 480
Joined: Sat Dec 01, 2012 8:59 am
Location: Sonthofen

Post by pmg »

Wow, you really must have a lot of time.
If its only the veneer broken but the upper glass layer intact it shouldnt affect the rideability at all. So I would definitely give them a grind and test ride them. And I would do this before you press the next skis. Then you can adapt the new skis if needed.
mammuth
Posts: 449
Joined: Tue Oct 28, 2014 3:48 am
Location: somewhere in the alps

Post by mammuth »

Akiwi wrote:
pmg wrote:And is the whole ski broken or just the veneer?
That is a good question. It could be just the veneer, but I suspect it is more as it has a bit of a permanent bend.
Sounds like more then the veneer when you encounter a permanent bend. Try to flex it again and you will see ;)
Tom
User avatar
Akiwi
Posts: 370
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2015 7:48 am
Location: Olching (Near Munich) Germany

Post by Akiwi »

pmg wrote:Wow, you really must have a lot of time.
If its only the veneer broken but the upper glass layer intact it shouldnt affect the rideability at all. So I would definitely give them a grind and test ride them. And I would do this before you press the next skis. Then you can adapt the new skis if needed.
No, I definitely do NOT have a lot of time.
However I am going to Austria over Christmas hopefully to ski.. if there is any snow. And if I build something and present it to others, then I want it to be perfect. I'll be there nearly 2 weeks.

And to be honest I don't trust the plywood cores any more.
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
skidesmond
Posts: 2337
Joined: Tue Apr 07, 2009 3:26 pm
Location: Western Mass, USA
Contact:

Post by skidesmond »

The skis and snowboard look great! I like the HB design in the tip w/ the CF. Nice accent piece! Too bad the ski cracked. So is the ski toast? Did you lose the camber in the ski where the crack is? If so it's probably toast. Otherwise maybe you can salvage it, but if you do try bring another pairs of skis with you just in case :-).
User avatar
Akiwi
Posts: 370
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2015 7:48 am
Location: Olching (Near Munich) Germany

Post by Akiwi »

Shit, I'm having problems. The cores I made looked beautiful. But after profiling they were 3.5 mm thick at the tips and realy stiff.
I tried sanding but it was too slow. So I put them back in the profile table, and stupidly took too much off so the cores were only about 1.4 mm in the front!! Much too thin.
Fooook.

I tried to compromise in the layup. I added a 160g/m² layer of carbon on the bottom and 200g/m² on the front of the ski.
Rest was 750g/m² Triaxial and a layer of 320g/m² Biax under binding.

We will see how it comes out. Bit I need to practice getting the correct thickness for my cores.
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
MadRussian
Posts: 712
Joined: Thu Sep 30, 2010 12:32 pm
Location: USA

Post by MadRussian »

you should be fine specially which so much extra carbon fiber. iirc you using ash core that's a stiff wood to begin with.
I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.
Thomas A. Edison
sammer
Posts: 933
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2007 10:37 pm
Location: Fernie B.C.
Contact:

Post by sammer »

I think you're using router table, if not this doesn't apply.

Set up your table and use a piece of tip spacer to set the depth stop on your router. then put your core blank in and start cutting.
Leave the stop locked in this position until you are making something with thinner tip spacer, and you won't be able to cut too deep.

sam
You don't even have a legit signature, nothing to reveal who you are and what you do...

Best of luck to you. (uneva)
User avatar
Akiwi
Posts: 370
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2015 7:48 am
Location: Olching (Near Munich) Germany

Post by Akiwi »

sammer wrote:I think you're using router table, if not this doesn't apply.

Set up your table and use a piece of tip spacer to set the depth stop on your router. then put your core blank in and start cutting.
Leave the stop locked in this position until you are making something with thinner tip spacer, and you won't be able to cut too deep.

sam
I was stupid and working under time preasure trying to get these finished this weekend. As was mentioned here recently. Don't work under time preassure.

That is a good tip spacer tip ;-)
I am not using tip spacers, but I thought the other day I need to organize myself some 2.5 and 3mm material for this purpose.
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
User avatar
Akiwi
Posts: 370
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2015 7:48 am
Location: Olching (Near Munich) Germany

Post by Akiwi »

skidesmond wrote:The skis and snowboard look great! I like the HB design in the tip w/ the CF. Nice accent piece! Too bad the ski cracked. So is the ski toast? Did you lose the camber in the ski where the crack is? If so it's probably toast. Otherwise maybe you can salvage it, but if you do try bring another pairs of skis with you just in case :-).
Thanks skidesmond. I am pretty happy with them too.
I am not sure about the cracked ski, It is where the ski transitions from rocker into camber and definitely has a visible ridge on the bottom. I will probably try to ski on them anyway... However I have now built a new pair, and I will definitely have my Nordica Doberman's as a backup / hard snow ski.
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
User avatar
Akiwi
Posts: 370
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2015 7:48 am
Location: Olching (Near Munich) Germany

Post by Akiwi »

Ok, Replacements for the broken ski are nearly finished. Worked pretty hard on Saturday to get them finished.
Image

Image

And yes, the second pair came out better than the first.
Image
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
satch
Posts: 51
Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2012 5:38 pm

Post by satch »

Looks pretty good.
What did you Change compared to the last one? What type and weight of fibers did you use?
User avatar
Akiwi
Posts: 370
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2015 7:48 am
Location: Olching (Near Munich) Germany

Post by Akiwi »

satch wrote:Looks pretty good.
What did you Change compared to the last one? What type and weight of fibers did you use?
See above..

I added a 160g/m² layer of carbon on the bottom and 200g/m² on the Top front of the ski.
Rest was 750g/m² Triaxial and a layer of 320g/m² Biax under binding.
the only other difference is I used an Ash core instead of the Birch Ply wood.
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
satch
Posts: 51
Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2012 5:38 pm

Post by satch »

Thanks

The ash core will help A LOT. I would have added the carbon to the top Laminate. A thicker and stronger Laminate is not as prone to buckling.
People often make the mistake to put too much fibers into the botttom Laminate of a Sandwich. But as the fibers handle Tension better than pressure you Need to reinforce the pressure side (top of the ski).
User avatar
Akiwi
Posts: 370
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2015 7:48 am
Location: Olching (Near Munich) Germany

Post by Akiwi »

satch wrote:Thanks

The ash core will help A LOT. I would have added the carbon to the top Laminate. A thicker and stronger Laminate is not as prone to buckling.
People often make the mistake to put too much fibers into the botttom Laminate of a Sandwich. But as the fibers handle Tension better than pressure you Need to reinforce the pressure side (top of the ski).
OK, That makes sense.
I have Carbon on the top in the front 1/3 of the ski. So that will help there.
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
Post Reply