Ski Builders Forum

Hannes wrote:Your board looks graet like always.
Basalt sounds interesting. Did you work with it before? How does it perform? Where can you buy it in small amounts for just a few skis? A few months ago I didn´t find any at the regular suspects r-g, hp-textiles and timeout had only 150g or 235g woven.

Thanks, my son and I did the design, and he is happy with it.. so that is the main thing.
The Basalt is a "Restposten" from HP I think. I got it from Dan Graf.

It is a lot coarser than I anticipated and therefore quite stiff. Seems to take quite a lot of epoxy too making the board relatively heavy.. On the other hand I was also working with a bamboo core which I haven't used before so it is difficult to compare things.

What I did note is when handling / cutting / sanding it, you don't itch everywhere.

Akiwi wrote: What I did note is when handling / cutting / sanding it, you don't itch everywhere.

:) Used gloves for the first time on my current build because that itching really is a PITA.

We have had some great skiing over the last couple of days. My son loves the board.
I can see a bit of discoloration in the tip in the basalt where it has flexed hard.. Hope it is not a sign that the epoxy is not binding with the basalt properly. We will see.
Here is a small video from yesterday where he put the board (and himself) through a stress test.
https://youtu.be/SR3ypmdQqj8

Nice, where did you find that much snow? Italy?

Cheers,
Hannes

PS: Props to your son

Wurzeralm in Oberösterreich. It is 3 hours from here.
www.hiwu.at

Jeez, This forum seems to have died.. No action here for ages.
I have just started on a pair of powder skis. About 108 under foot. I used the Vökl 100Eight as Basis.
I'm going to try something like the V-Werks construction.

Hello Akiwi

I have made a pair using the V werks type construction - they look spectacular and perform really well.

http://s685.photobucket.com/user/Gilo_album/library/

The lay up was:

Base
cork damping
biax GF
UD CF
1.5mm beech aero plywood
Cut out core (poplar stringer and ash side walls)
Triax carbon

The shape was a reworking of a 184 Katana.

I pressed as per normal but used a silicone sheet instead of peel ply in order to get the triax to follow the contours of the core. I also pressed the skis separately.

If you PM me your private email address I will scan a copy of the core dimensions I used.

Good luck

Gilo

Started on Saturday with these babies.
Not sure if I would do this again. The core construction took me ages. Tons of Core is Ash in the middle, paulowniaalong the tip and tail, and a Maple veneer for the thin sections.








Did the layup with my son tonight.
Used Basalt cut at 45 degrees as my Biax.
Carbon Stringer and fiberglass Unidirectional.
Topped off with a Walnut veneer.

Now I have to wait 24 hours before I can take it out of the press.

Ok, SO last night I Removed the skis from the press.
They look great!
Cut them out with my new Band saw... Awesome!
Sanded and clear coated.

A quick photo session this morning before taking them for a base grind and binding mounting.

I will be able to use them at the Ski Builders get together this Saturday in Austria.

I was quite impressed with the weight!
Before the base grind they were 1820 grams per ski!

I think that is OK for a 185 cm ski which is 108 wide under foot.







What I learnt:

One of my bases was a little off. I used the same template to cut it, but after the edges were mounted it was a little squew.
This meant the core didn't fit properly by about 2 mm.

Therefore I have a sidewall on one ski!
Couldn't sell them, but I think it will be OK.

Secondly I was intending to use a cap with small sidewall construction using Ash Sidewalls. When I trimmed the width at 45 degrees I took about 2mm too much off, so it created a pure cap with almost no sidewall. Not at all serious.. but wasn't what I wanted.

I like the 3d-design!
I wanted to come to the get together as well and get a few ideas for my next skis. But I have to work late on friday and don't want to drive 900km at night to go skiing the next day. I hope you guys have fun!

Those skis look great!
1820g is alo pretty good for these dimensions.
Would you be willing to explain your layup a bit more?
What Kind of blade are you using on your band saw. The Standard blades are intended for Wood and don't last very Long cutting fibers. Especially when cutting carbon. Ask my father how I know ! ;-)

And a little bickering...
You should get rid of the paper you print your logos on. IT kind of destroys the clean look of your veneer top sheet. You can Transfer a printed image onto wood using acrylic gels.

Nice skis! What thread did I miss regarding the skibuilders get together?! I will be at Hochkönig this weekend. Any chance the meeting is there?

Just a little tip for getting rid of the pinholes on the carbon, get hold of some APF7 (sold by Ami-con in the UK) it's known is composites circles as "black magic" as you just give the carbon parts a quick skim of the stuff and laquer it et voila, no pinholes and you can't see the filler

satch wrote:Those skis look great!
1820g is alo pretty good for these dimensions.
Would you be willing to explain your layup a bit more?
What Kind of blade are you using on your band saw. The Standard blades are intended for Wood and don't last very Long cutting fibers. Especially when cutting carbon. Ask my father how I know ! ;-)

Thanks, I am happy with them..

Here is a diagram of the layup.
There isn't too much science gone into the layup. They are the materials I had in the workshop, so I used them.
The Basalt at 600 g/m2 is quite thick, but I figured the construction could use the extra beef for reduced tortional rigidity.



The bandsaw blade is a UDDEHOLM 000 wood Bandsaw steel. 4 teeth per inch.

I agree with what you say about the graphic. I wanted to cut out the HB in the Veneer, but ran out of time, as I needed my son to help with the layup, and I wanted to do it on Sunday night. If I use the tissue paper on a light coloured veneer, it goes almost invisible. But on the dark veneer it looks pretty shitty.

Hi Chrislandy, When do you do that with the APF7? After the layup and before clear coating with time for it to dry?