Dear Akiwi,
yes it is expensive, we decided to produce our own inserts since it is much more cheaper. But still the problem with magnetic caps is not solved....
Through the thorns to the stars
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
you need to align your top sheet so that it can be installed in the exact same position before lay up.motoman wrote:Dear Akiwi,
yes it is expensive, we decided to produce our on inserts it is much more cheaper. But still the problem with magnetic caps is not solved....
Then tape it to the core, flip it so the top sheet is on the bottom, using the insert holes as a guide punch a nail (or similar?) through the top sheet. Your inserts are now marked, just make sure the top sheet goes on in the correct location, I staple mine to the core flash.
Dear gozaimaas,
it seems to be good way to solve the problem. Also I think that it is enough to have 2 holes to get final result, since it is possible to use metal template for finding inserts.
By the by, when we did our picture for the top sheet there were illustrated places of holes. But in the result it didn't work for us, as we downloaded the picture in internet and holes were illustrated by the default and we forgot to remove them.
it seems to be good way to solve the problem. Also I think that it is enough to have 2 holes to get final result, since it is possible to use metal template for finding inserts.
By the by, when we did our picture for the top sheet there were illustrated places of holes. But in the result it didn't work for us, as we downloaded the picture in internet and holes were illustrated by the default and we forgot to remove them.
Here is our first "practice makes perfect".
Looking good, isn't it?
The problems that occurred:
- the camber is very poor. 1 or 2 mm instead of 7. Probably the reason is absence of heat blanket. Also if there were no heat blanket we had to make bigger camber. Next time we will take it into account.
- there are a lot of bulges on the top sheet because of adhesive tape that served as protective film. But base is okay since UHMWPE is elastic.
- also we did a stupid. We shift a little our core during layup. So, you can see the result. We planned to make twin tip but we get directional one))
It caused some deformations in the place of plastic attachment.
About the properties:
- snowboard is very flexible, 4-5 from 10. Probably because of bi-axial fiberglass and process of glue hardening.
- it is strong and we couldn't broke it. It says that glue worked well.
- I don't know but our top sheet is a little transparent, may be because of a lack of inks. Wood is not seen but sidewalls and inserts are. That is why it was not big deal to find inserts.
Also we had a little test on fake slope...
Generally we are satisfied for the first time.
Looking good, isn't it?
The problems that occurred:
- the camber is very poor. 1 or 2 mm instead of 7. Probably the reason is absence of heat blanket. Also if there were no heat blanket we had to make bigger camber. Next time we will take it into account.
- there are a lot of bulges on the top sheet because of adhesive tape that served as protective film. But base is okay since UHMWPE is elastic.
- also we did a stupid. We shift a little our core during layup. So, you can see the result. We planned to make twin tip but we get directional one))
It caused some deformations in the place of plastic attachment.
About the properties:
- snowboard is very flexible, 4-5 from 10. Probably because of bi-axial fiberglass and process of glue hardening.
- it is strong and we couldn't broke it. It says that glue worked well.
- I don't know but our top sheet is a little transparent, may be because of a lack of inks. Wood is not seen but sidewalls and inserts are. That is why it was not big deal to find inserts.
Also we had a little test on fake slope...
Generally we are satisfied for the first time.
Nice job
Don't bother covering the base with protective film (especially packing tape) it needs a grind afterwards anyway.
For the topsheet you can get vinyl sticker application tape that comes in a wide roll for one piece to cover the whole topsheet. You can find it on ebay or a local signwriter will have it.
example: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/9x-600x9m-Mi ... 1368075287
Don't bother covering the base with protective film (especially packing tape) it needs a grind afterwards anyway.
For the topsheet you can get vinyl sticker application tape that comes in a wide roll for one piece to cover the whole topsheet. You can find it on ebay or a local signwriter will have it.
example: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/9x-600x9m-Mi ... 1368075287
Don't wait up, I'm off to kill Summer....
Yes, it is not necessary, mainly it was done for the first time, since we afraid that glue somehow will penetrates under the base.Don't bother covering the base with protective film (especially packing tape) it needs a grind afterwards anyway.
Also I have one question about effective way of grinding. How it is better to do it, with small density sandpaper or some other material? If sandpaper, what is better some belt grinder device or manual method?
Congratulations on your first board!
Looks good.
A couple of small details that can be dealt with for the second, but the first one is there!
for the topsheet protection, I went to a local signwriter here and they had a huge stack of offcuts. many over 2 m long and 30 cm wide, so I took a few and gave them a few euros. Is much cheaper than buying new rolls.
Looks good.
A couple of small details that can be dealt with for the second, but the first one is there!
for the topsheet protection, I went to a local signwriter here and they had a huge stack of offcuts. many over 2 m long and 30 cm wide, so I took a few and gave them a few euros. Is much cheaper than buying new rolls.
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
Seems to be good possibility to get protective film))Akiwi wrote:Congratulations on your first board!
for the topsheet protection, I went to a local signwriter here and they had a huge stack of offcuts. many over 2 m long and 30 cm wide, so I took a few and gave them a few euros. Is much cheaper than buying new rolls.
In the future we will use some protective film, but this time our topsheet will come with protective film on it.
That's the tackiest graphic ever!
For grinding the bases get the board to a ski/snowboard shop and have them do a base grind with the proper machines. Sanding by hand is not really an option here.
If you want the colors on the topsheet to be opaque, you need a coat of white ink beneath the print. Many UV-printers have white inks and can do this directly. Otherwise you can roll on a coat of white epoxy based ink.
For grinding the bases get the board to a ski/snowboard shop and have them do a base grind with the proper machines. Sanding by hand is not really an option here.
If you want the colors on the topsheet to be opaque, you need a coat of white ink beneath the print. Many UV-printers have white inks and can do this directly. Otherwise you can roll on a coat of white epoxy based ink.
The point is to have own grinding device, since we did all the way not to ask somebody to grind us our snowboards. If it won't be possible to make our own grinding device we will buy it.chrismp wrote:
For grinding the bases get the board to a ski/snowboard shop and have them do a base grind with the proper machines. Sanding by hand is not really an option here.
If you want the colors on the topsheet to be opaque, you need a coat of white ink beneath the print. Many UV-printers have white inks and can do this directly. Otherwise you can roll on a coat of white epoxy based ink.
Some good advises are welcome!!
Concerning UV-printer, topsheet has a white coating. Before layup topsheet was not transparent, but after press it could be possible to observe places of binding inserts on the light color. sidewalls also were visible.
the reason might be that we have attached sidewalls after profiling the core and and may be there was a little gap between sidewalls and core and after press (because of high pressure) sidewalls squeezed more epoxy and trace of fiberglass imprinted on topsheet. The same to binding inserts, probably they imprinted on topsheet.
Grinding on your own... hard, pretty hard.
A complete machine setup for making a proper snowboard service (stone grind) costs more than 100.000€...
Edge tuning isn't a problem, but the base grind is. And the best board/ski rides poor if the base grind sucks.
So if you find someone willing to do this, take it :)
A complete machine setup for making a proper snowboard service (stone grind) costs more than 100.000€...
Edge tuning isn't a problem, but the base grind is. And the best board/ski rides poor if the base grind sucks.
So if you find someone willing to do this, take it :)
So, do you have such machine or you ask somebody to grind your rides?pmg wrote:Grinding on your own... hard, pretty hard.
A complete machine setup for making a proper snowboard service (stone grind) costs more than 100.000€...
I have seen some used machines for 600-700$.
We have such device and we used it to grind leftovers of plastic that remained after cutting off unnecessary ports of plastic and fiberglass after press.
This device basically is used for grinding surfaces like floor.
Well, I am lucky and work in a ski service in winter :)
With a belt grinder you can achieve an ok grind with proper belts, but it will never be as good as a stone grind.
If you plan to grind on your own with a belt grinder:
- It needs to be one with a belt wider than your boards
- Without built in water cooling its nearly impossible not to burn the base, so a cooling system is very good.
- At least a 1 rough belt (like grit 80-120) to take away material
- At least 1 very fine belt (grit 600 or finer) to get the surface smooth enough.
- And some old test boards, grinding by hand without autofeed requires quite some experience.
With a belt grinder you can achieve an ok grind with proper belts, but it will never be as good as a stone grind.
If you plan to grind on your own with a belt grinder:
- It needs to be one with a belt wider than your boards
- Without built in water cooling its nearly impossible not to burn the base, so a cooling system is very good.
- At least a 1 rough belt (like grit 80-120) to take away material
- At least 1 very fine belt (grit 600 or finer) to get the surface smooth enough.
- And some old test boards, grinding by hand without autofeed requires quite some experience.
Thank you for your good advice. You have provided detailed information))pmg wrote:Well, I am lucky and work in a ski service in winter
With a belt grinder you can achieve an ok grind with proper belts, but it will never be as good as a stone grind.
If you plan to grind on your own with a belt grinder:
- It needs to be one with a belt wider than your boards
- Without built in water cooling its nearly impossible not to burn the base, so a cooling system is very good.
- At least a 1 rough belt (like grit 80-120) to take away material
- At least 1 very fine belt (grit 600 or finer) to get the surface smooth enough.
- And some old test boards, grinding by hand without autofeed requires quite some experience.
Now I know that we need more money if we will buy professional grinder.