Edge Cnc Question
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Edge Cnc Question
I just built a CNC router and I was interested in making a few pairs of skis.
Can I route out a notch on the ski base for the little dovetails on the steel edge? I was thinking this would help everything hold together a little better.
Thanks!
Can I route out a notch on the ski base for the little dovetails on the steel edge? I was thinking this would help everything hold together a little better.
Thanks!
You would need to obtain slightly thicker base material to do this. I've pondered using a router table to do this but I have no thick base material. You could also use regular base material and edges and then use a routed out base material (abraded on both sides) for a second layer of base above the first layer.
Either way you should be able to get a nice flat ski.
If you make some routed base materials please post pics.
Either way you should be able to get a nice flat ski.
If you make some routed base materials please post pics.
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I second thatrockaukum wrote:Save the base material and route out the wood core to recieve the edge flange and you should have a flat base. Also use VDS over the edges.
rockaukum
if you using sidewalls, build the core/sidewall setup then run the router over it to get a channel along the sidewall to compensate for edge.
OR, you can use sidewall material that is thinner by the difference.
Doug
knightsofnii wrote:I’m not convinced the edge tabs cause major issues achieving a flat base. Just yesterday I used a Wintersteiger Micro 71 tuning machine to finish the bottoms of my latest ski build. Out of the press I detected shallow base sinking near the edge tabs at the front end of the ski. Well, after six or seven passes over the wet sanding belt on the machine my bases became perfectly flat edge to edge. Two passes over the stone resulted in a very nice structured surface.rockaukum wrote:...then run the router over it to get a channel along the sidewall to compensate for edge...
I press using only 35 psi in the bladder which equals 11,000 lbs force on the ski (315 square inch base area). This squeezes out much of the excess epoxy but does not squeeze the living hell out of the assembly such that the edge tabs protrude through the bottoms. I did that on an earlier build and that pair did not clean-up so well.
I cook the snot out of them while under pressure and they keep every bit of their shape. I can take a finished ski weeks later and lay it back onto my press form and it matches the mold surface perfectly tip to tail.
My ski dimensions are: 185 cm long, 134-103-124 mm widths, 25 meter side cut radius, 157.5 cm running length, 12 mm camber.
Now all we need is some winter storms!
-S
- MontuckyMadman
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I do a slow ramp up to 190 degrees F over a one hour period. Then I let them soak at that temp for an hour, then I drop it down to 170 for a few more hours. Then I turn off the heater and let them cool back down to ambient (overnight) while still under pressure (35psi). This works to prefection everytime. After a proper base tune on the Wintersteiger, the bottoms remain very flat edge to edge. The skis maintain their camber, even after several hard days of torture on the slopes.Buuk wrote:@SHIF
What temperature do you use while pressing at 35 psi?
Thanks,
Buuk
Also worth noting, my skis do not weigh more than a typical Volkl Mantra or Gotama (my design inspiration).
-S