Hello all,
I have been building a pneumatic press based off the i-beam designs i've seen here. It's time for the final component....the mold and form blocks.
we are messing around with different camber and nose and tail curve radius' on a buddies auto CAD but not super happy with what we end up with. Hoping someone can share the curve radius details or even a CAD file to get me going. Hoping to build a new (usable) board before the new season. Any help or a point in the right direction would be greatly appropriated.
thanks so much[/img]
Form Block Design/ Nose and Tail Curve Radius?
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MontuckyMadman
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- Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:41 pm
Are you talking about the curve up of your board at the tip and tail? Or the radius along the sidewall where the effective edge turns into the tip and tail?
If its the first one then you want something around 400-550mm radius.
If you get some A3 paper and draw some 5:1 scale drawings you will know what looks right for board shape when you see it.
If its the first one then you want something around 400-550mm radius.
If you get some A3 paper and draw some 5:1 scale drawings you will know what looks right for board shape when you see it.
Either way I just draw it on a something, wood, paper, cardboard, until it looks right. Haven't seen a point in getting all scientific about it. If it looks right it probably is.gav wa wrote:Are you talking about the curve up of your board at the tip and tail? Or the radius along the sidewall where the effective edge turns into the tip and tail?
If its the first one then you want something around 400-550mm radius.
If you get some A3 paper and draw some 5:1 scale drawings you will know what looks right for board shape when you see it.
sam
You don't even have a legit signature, nothing to reveal who you are and what you do...
Best of luck to you. (uneva)
Best of luck to you. (uneva)
Just make sure your running length is at least about 100mm shorter than your effective edge. 50mm each end. Unless you are doing a fish or similar, then you don't need to worry so much at the tail.
I usually draw the shape of the board I want first then you can work on the camber profile from there. Done it the other way and ended up having to compromise on the actual shape of the board because the camber mold had such a long running length.
As sammer said, a quick drawing on anything will make any weird looking angles or shapes stand out.
I usually draw the shape of the board I want first then you can work on the camber profile from there. Done it the other way and ended up having to compromise on the actual shape of the board because the camber mold had such a long running length.
As sammer said, a quick drawing on anything will make any weird looking angles or shapes stand out.