Base Material as Tip Fill

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gketcham
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Base Material as Tip Fill

Post by gketcham »

Is anyone using different color base material to substitute as tip fill for their skis? I tried it because its the same stuff, scuffed both sides but my skis keep delaming. Thanks.
pmg
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Post by pmg »

Did you also flame both sides?
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MontuckyMadman
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Post by MontuckyMadman »

Yeah ive done ths sevral times. Multiple layers as well. Works fine.
skidesmond
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Post by skidesmond »

Yes I've done that also. Works fine.
mikic1
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Post by mikic1 »

yes (1.2mm + 1.2mm both sides flamed and sanded), no problems at all.
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vinman
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Post by vinman »

"scuffing" it might be your issue. If you are using stuff from crown that is only abraded on one side then it might just be too smooth.

If by scuffing it you have sanded it with 80 grit and it is nicely abraded and then you flamed it properly then maybe it would bond well enough.

I think I would personally hand sand the smooth side with 40, 60 and then 80 grit wrapped around a PVC pipe to get it abraded well enough that I though all of the smooth surface. The reason I would hand sand is that a belt sander would probably build up too much heat. Hand sanding a small tip spacer piece like that would only take 5-10 min maybe.

Be sure that you also flame the piece. If you handle it excessively or without gloves then you might also need a wipe down with alcohol or other solvent of choice.
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sammer
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Post by sammer »

Haven't had a delam yet in the few pair I've done.
I usually hand sand with 120g then flame.
Good way to use up scraps.
A single layer is the perfect thickness for kids skis.
Machining the cores that thin is a different story.


sam
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gketcham
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Post by gketcham »

Oh thanks everybody. I sanded the one side on a belt grinder with a very low grit belt. I also did not flame treat it. I'll try a better method, use gloves, and flame treat next time.
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vinman
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Post by vinman »

You've got to flame it! That's likely your delam problem.
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mammuth
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Post by mammuth »

What i do:

grind with 80 grit
clean with ethanol
flame

in some doc posted here this was descibed as the best method (was a scientific? test)
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vinman
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Post by vinman »

the solvent might not be needed unless you think you've gotten things oily with your hands.

Flaming should be done with the very end of the flame at a rate of ~1 foot per sec

link to west systems web site for use of their epoxies, abrasion, and flaming.
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/gluing-pla ... lex-epoxy/
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