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Cutting out flesh on tip/tail with no edge

Posted: Thu May 24, 2018 1:11 am
by motoman
Hello everyone,
if there any guys doing powder boards or skis with no edges on the tip and tail?
I tried to make a few snowboards with small fish tail but was not sure about making tail with no edges after effective zone.
I am not sure that it will be possible to follow the curve of the snowboard contour on the place that do not have the edge since nothing will hold blade if something goes wrong.

What methods do you use to cut flesh on boards and skis with no continuous edge?

Here is picture how I do it for now, but I would like to make deeper tail.
Image
Image

Thanks for attention

Posted: Thu May 24, 2018 9:24 am
by mammuth
Just per hand and eye. You have the base as template. Cutting with the saw and grinding with belt sander.


Btw. very nice base graphics you have!

Posted: Thu May 24, 2018 11:34 pm
by chrismp
What mammuth said. Just use the base as a guideline and be careful during cutting/sanding.

Is that base graphic sublimated? Looks really sharp!

Posted: Fri May 25, 2018 12:39 am
by mammuth
Looks almost like its sublimated on the glide side of the base!?

Posted: Fri May 25, 2018 11:39 pm
by motoman
mammuth wrote:Looks almost like its sublimated on the glide side of the base!?
Thanks, Tom. The sublimation was performed on the rough treated side. The pic you see is glide contact side.

Posted: Fri May 25, 2018 11:49 pm
by motoman
chrismp wrote: Is that base graphic sublimated? Looks really sharp!
Yes, this is sublimation.
Basically it very depend on the graphic you make and color of inks. Some colors look more straight than the other. Thin lines (less than 2 mm) are the biggest problem.
Here are some pics of very small objects.
Image
Closer look
Image

Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 1:29 am
by falls
I just use a jigsaw with the ski base side up and follow close to the edge of the base without touching it. Not hard after some practice. Then as the others said using a belt or drum sander to clean it up back to the base material. I use a drum covered in sandpaper that mounts in a drill press. With a deep swallow tail you would need to use something like that (drill press drum, bobbin sander or a sanding drum mounted to a dremel maybe) as a long belt sander or hand held belt sander would be hard to get right up into the deepest part of the swallow tail.

Image

Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 1:08 am
by mammuth
Ey falls. This drum thingy looks nice. Do you have more info / links ?

Posted: Tue Jun 12, 2018 8:25 pm
by motoman
falls wrote:I just use a jigsaw with the ski base side up and follow close to the edge of the base without touching it.
Hi, Falls. By the by, do you use carbide blades or blades for metal?

Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2018 7:25 pm
by rnordell
I really like the oscillating belt and spindle sander made by Ridgid tools. The oscillating helps the belt or spindle wear more evenly. By using the belt along the edge it prevents putting too much pressure on any one area and helps give a smooth edge along the entire length. No subtle nicks from a spindle that potentially need filing out.
https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/oscillatin ... dle-sander

Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2018 3:44 am
by falls
I use a jigsaw blade for metal, they cut the fibreglass better.
I got the 3 inch diam by 3 inch length drum sander from lee valley tools I think or one of the other USA woodworking stores. I don't have the bearng support bit but it would be nice because I definitely get a bit of deflection on the drum (it doesn't really matter because I bevel the sidewall anyway)
http://www.rockler.com/15-piece-drum-sa ... nt-sleeves Rockler.
I think the bearing support comes from lee valley. You can recess it into a tabletop to get a sanding surface all the way down to the table level.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.a ... 01&p=20200

Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2018 9:46 am
by kit
I really like these for cutting flash - best I've found. The zero kerf lets me cut flush to edges without damaging them, and they seem to last longer than others by far. You can get them at Home Depot even cheaper than Amazon - I think about 12 bucks for 5.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J1CSWI/?c ... _lig_dp_it

Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2018 6:04 am
by motoman
rnordell wrote:I really like the oscillating belt and spindle sander made by Ridgid tools. The oscillating helps the belt or spindle wear more evenly. By using the belt along the edge it prevents putting too much pressure on any one area and helps give a smooth edge along the entire length. No subtle nicks from a spindle that potentially need filing out.
https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/oscillatin ... dle-sander
That is awesome device, newer seen it before. Once I saw something similar, but way bigger on NS factory tour. It works the same way up and down. It really saves sandpaper.
If it were possible to add some kind of emulsion, it would be great!

Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2018 6:09 am
by motoman
falls wrote: I got the 3 inch diam by 3 inch length drum sander from lee valley tools I think or one of the other USA woodworking stores. I don't have the bearng support bit but it would be nice because I definitely get a bit of deflection on the drum (it doesn't really matter because I bevel the sidewall anyway)
http://www.rockler.com/15-piece-drum-sa ... nt-sleeves Rockler.
I think the bearing support comes from lee valley. You can recess it into a tabletop to get a sanding surface all the way down to the table level.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.a ... 01&p=20200
Great setup!Newer seen it. Sometimes I use drum sander for fishtails, it can be set up on the same device I use for cutting edges.

Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2018 6:16 am
by motoman
kit wrote:I really like these for cutting flash - best I've found. The zero kerf lets me cut flush to edges without damaging them, and they seem to last longer than others by far. You can get them at Home Depot even cheaper than Amazon - I think about 12 bucks for 5.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J1CSWI/?c ... _lig_dp_it
I use blades for metal as Falls does, but they lasts way to quick. One blade is enough for one board. I also figured out that lifetime of blades depend upon sidewall material. The worst thing is ABS. It melts really fast and plastic stuck in between blade teeth and it makes really hard to cut flash. UHMWPE is much better in this regard. I do not know how urethane will show itself.