Ski Builders Forum

There are a lot of posts here on skibuilders about equipment, bits, etc. used for routing or grinding a finish angle on sidewalls. I'd like to ask for people's experience with technique. I am having trouble understanding how to make a fluid transition on the ski for engaging the router bit. I am using a benchtop Dewalt router with a 7 degree bit. I built a sled with clamps that holds the ski flat and in place and provides a nice platform to run the ski against the bit.

Is there good technique for how to use this setup to get a nice transition on the ski? I've searched through numerous videos and the pros look like they are using a nice fluid motion with just their hands to engage the bit. My attempts have resulted in a more harsh transition, as seen in the photo below.

Am I missing something? Is there a guide I need to add to the setup?

Keep going all the way out?

MontuckyMadman wrote:Keep going all the way out?

Maybe its just the design of my ski, but the bit would take a chunk from the rise in the tip/tail if I did that.

Just run the bearing along the edge of the ski. Start with it tiger than you want at first so you don't cut too deep. Make sure to clean up your edge so you are down to shiny metal then lower the bit to your final height.

Be sure to keep your base flat on the table top. When you get close to the rocker/tip curvature end you're cutting. Then blend the tip and tail in with a sander.

You'll get the hang of it.

I personally think doing this both ways several times the tilt router laminate trimmer is the way to go.
You can start with low angle and do a couple passes while increasing the angle. Its much more finesse but easier IMO.
Yes flat to base is key otherwise gets chunky.
Spend $60-$100 or more its worth it.
Try using google to search this site it has been discussed a bunch.

Here is an old thread where I show my cantilevered router set-up for beveling sidewalls:

http://www.skibuilders.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4952

-SHIF

Agree to Montucky. Did change to tilt router last season, its soo easy and quick ill never look back on all the other methods (including stationary tilted router table) i used. The small makita machine is nice for that.

Btw. i do it in one pass

martdj wrote:

MontuckyMadman wrote:Keep going all the way out?

Maybe its just the design of my ski, but the bit would take a chunk from the rise in the tip/tail if I did that.

You have to keep the part of the ski that is even with the bit flat. so as your tip and tail come closer to bit you actually have to pick up ski in the tip or tail to make sure consistent contact.

I have a table jig, that goes on my router table, that changes the angle of the table surface while using a strait bit . I believe i got the idea from Kam. Someone on here wrote on one of my blogs about rotational speed of a 7deg vs straight bit when cutting side wall. Look back like 4 years. Its there.

Thanks for all the useful replies and links to past threads!

I actually use the table to make my initial passes then clean up the sidewall down to clean edge, then the tilt base router to cut the final profile and add a slight step of 2.5-3mm above the edge.

I also bevel the top edge of the sidewall with a tilt base to reduce chipping. It gives the sidewall a bit of a "hip roof" kind of profile.

Agreed that you have to adjust at the base of the tip and tail as to not gouge things.

I gave up on the router for sidewalls and built a tilt table for my small belt sander.
Run it at 90* for the initial cleanup then tilt the table and bevel side walls.
Way less stressful.

sam