Hi all, After I press a pair of skis I have a hard time getting my bandsaw to run right along the ski edge when cutting it out. I end up spending a lot of time cleaning the epoxy off the edges in preparation for my router. When I try the jig saw I have a similar issue with not being able to stay consistently close and i also burn through blades quickly.
Does anyone have any suggestions as far as technique or tools so that I can have a nice clean edge to run my router bearing on? Do you know of any strategy to mask off the side edge? Thanks in advance!
Need help with cutting ski out after it's pressed
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
I cut off the excess flash using my Bosch jigsaw with combo blades. Cutting from the bottom as to see the metal edges, I try to stay within a few millimeters of the ski edges. I can cut out an entire pair of skis with one blade if I'm careful and don't go too fast. The Bosch saw has an orbit mode which really helps get the blade through the composite material.
Next I clamp a ski up on its edge and grind away the remaining excess material using my 4.5 inch diameter angle grinder (Milwaukee brand) fitted with a 40 grit abrasive flap disc like this:
I can usually grind down a pair of skis using one such flap disc if I work the thickest parts of both skis first, and then work on their ends. The worn out disc still cuts quite well in the thinner parts of the skis. This task requires skill and practice to master. It's really easy to gouge the ski if the machine gets away from you. I make long steady passes over the saw-cut sides and bring the sidewalls down to the metal edges until sparks start to fly. Grinding the end profiles is the best part of the job. The ski really takes shape.
The grinding process results in a ski with vertical sidewalls all around, ready for the router process used to carve a bevel on the top edges as shown:
These skis have black UHMW sidewalls.
This router is mounted on a cantilevered aluminum plate. The ski is pushed beneath it, riding on a curved strip of MDF. The guide bearing mounted on the end of the router bit follows the metal ski edge.
Good luck,
-S
Next I clamp a ski up on its edge and grind away the remaining excess material using my 4.5 inch diameter angle grinder (Milwaukee brand) fitted with a 40 grit abrasive flap disc like this:
I can usually grind down a pair of skis using one such flap disc if I work the thickest parts of both skis first, and then work on their ends. The worn out disc still cuts quite well in the thinner parts of the skis. This task requires skill and practice to master. It's really easy to gouge the ski if the machine gets away from you. I make long steady passes over the saw-cut sides and bring the sidewalls down to the metal edges until sparks start to fly. Grinding the end profiles is the best part of the job. The ski really takes shape.
The grinding process results in a ski with vertical sidewalls all around, ready for the router process used to carve a bevel on the top edges as shown:
These skis have black UHMW sidewalls.
This router is mounted on a cantilevered aluminum plate. The ski is pushed beneath it, riding on a curved strip of MDF. The guide bearing mounted on the end of the router bit follows the metal ski edge.
Good luck,
-S
I use a higher quality dewalt jig saw with a combo blade to remove flash. I go through 1 blade per ski. The ski is upside down when I do this so I can see the edge as I cut.
I then clamp the ski on its side and use a belt sander to sand out any protruding sidewall. Because I use a beveled router bit I don't have to be perfect with this but I try to keep my sidewalls perpendicular to the base of my skis. Since I don't use wrap around edges the belt sander allows me to shape the tips until they conform to the base material shape.
Before I use the beveled router I make sure that the metal edges are shiny. This ensures that my sidewalls will be true to my edges.
I then clamp the ski on its side and use a belt sander to sand out any protruding sidewall. Because I use a beveled router bit I don't have to be perfect with this but I try to keep my sidewalls perpendicular to the base of my skis. Since I don't use wrap around edges the belt sander allows me to shape the tips until they conform to the base material shape.
Before I use the beveled router I make sure that the metal edges are shiny. This ensures that my sidewalls will be true to my edges.
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bobbyrobie
- Posts: 124
- Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 9:17 pm
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bobbyrobie
- Posts: 124
- Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 9:17 pm
anyone have luck with something like this?
http://ace.imageg.net/graphics/product_ ... 8254dt.jpg
something like that may last abit longer. mcmaster sells a diamond blade its like 25 dollars though.
http://ace.imageg.net/graphics/product_ ... 8254dt.jpg
something like that may last abit longer. mcmaster sells a diamond blade its like 25 dollars though.
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thefreshpimpofbigair
- Posts: 47
- Joined: Sat Jan 17, 2009 6:55 am
- Location: CB, CO
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doughboyshredder
- Posts: 1354
- Joined: Mon Sep 17, 2007 7:37 pm
My first real "job" in the industry started in front of one of those dded saws. Finishing was backed up by almost 500 boards, and getting worse each shift. I was showing up at the factory at 4 am and cutting out boards for two hours before anyone else even showed up. It got to the point where I could cut a board out in some ridiculous time, like 20 seconds or something.iggyskier wrote:this helps.
But I've never had issues with a Bosch Jig Saw and metal blades (what we also use for the tips).
First cut was done blind at an angle. Topsheet up, catch the edge and use it as a guide. Cut off one side, flip it around, cut off the other side, flip it upside down cut out the tip, flip it around and cut off the tail. Done.
I want one of those saws.
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bobbyrobie
- Posts: 124
- Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 9:17 pm
trim out of ski
I use either 4 or 6 teeth per inch hook tooth wood blades. 1/4 to 1/2 inch wide. Buy a hundred foot roll and make your own. $ 4.25@. Cheap so you dont mind abusing the piss out of them, and these are blades that have already been used for other operations. You can even run a stone along one side to tone down the set. Use the back edge of the blade as a guide, or bearing surface. After a little experience you can get a clean edge ready for the next step right from the saw. you will find that you will use the sound of the blade on the metal edge as a guide as well. Making blades. Silver solder, flux, and acetylene, or propane and a simple jig to hold the blades square. PM me if you need more details, but I would recommend seeking out an old timer woodworker to show you. I was taught by one off my older craftsmen, and he really enjoyed showing me all the little tricks too numerous to go into detail here. Also, you get to meet an new person that has years of practical experience that takes, well, years to learn. Good Luck, Mark
The chamfer bit shown has a 22.5 degree angle. I wanted to use 30 or maybe 45 degrees but that would require wider UHMW plastic sidewall blocks which would add more weight to the ski. These plastic sidewalls are heavy and very hard to bond to.Slant wrote:... Shif, I would be very interested to see a wider angle of your sidewall beveling jig. I haven't seen anyone use that method before. Thanks again!
My next set of cores will be vertically laminated bamboo (like always) but with teak wood sidewall blocks. These should bond better than the plastic and be lighter in weight. I think the teak will be durable enough and not soak up much water (after their urethane finish gets beat up). I may try a big sidewall chamfer angle on these "woodies".
Cheers,
-Shif