I'm new to this, doing my research while we build the press. Has anyone tried balsa wood core for tele. It is naturally well damped and used for such things as wind turbines. I would think that maybe a coat of sealer to prevent too much epoxy absorbtion. any opinions?
John
Balsa?
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good for model planes and beer-boards,
Wont provide any good flex or strength that you'd want in comparison to other traditional ski core woods.
Could be used as a "meat filler", in spots where you might want to consider removing sections of core, places where the stress/strain on the core are the weakest.
Wont provide any good flex or strength that you'd want in comparison to other traditional ski core woods.
Could be used as a "meat filler", in spots where you might want to consider removing sections of core, places where the stress/strain on the core are the weakest.
Doug
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also the drier you can get the wood, the lighter it will be.
And the less epoxy you use, the lighter your board will be, you want good coverage though, this is a fine line with wet layups.
Epoxys are such a huge realm, there are so many different brands and types and goals for each, and each have different weights, also a more fluid epoxy will squeeze out easier but you might want a thicker epoxy that DOESNT squeeze out easy because you want better bondage and strength, etc. Its these thicker ones where you have to figure out exactly how much to use.
Anyway, just sayin, it looks to me like you're trying to shave weight. Picking your woods is one way, there are others.
Like, using a thinner topsheet, slightly thinner base, less epoxy, less inserts, thinner core, dryer core, pneumatic press with heat cure, thinner tip fill, designs with less surface area, or less WASTED surface area, tucked in edges instead of full wrap, thinner or lighter weight glass.
You can also drill holes all over the nose/tail after you've built your board, haha. Bah I just got a new idea for lightening boards. ...
And the less epoxy you use, the lighter your board will be, you want good coverage though, this is a fine line with wet layups.
Epoxys are such a huge realm, there are so many different brands and types and goals for each, and each have different weights, also a more fluid epoxy will squeeze out easier but you might want a thicker epoxy that DOESNT squeeze out easy because you want better bondage and strength, etc. Its these thicker ones where you have to figure out exactly how much to use.
Anyway, just sayin, it looks to me like you're trying to shave weight. Picking your woods is one way, there are others.
Like, using a thinner topsheet, slightly thinner base, less epoxy, less inserts, thinner core, dryer core, pneumatic press with heat cure, thinner tip fill, designs with less surface area, or less WASTED surface area, tucked in edges instead of full wrap, thinner or lighter weight glass.
You can also drill holes all over the nose/tail after you've built your board, haha. Bah I just got a new idea for lightening boards. ...
Doug