156 all mountain freestyle twin
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
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- Posts: 1354
- Joined: Mon Sep 17, 2007 7:37 pm
156 all mountain freestyle twin
This board is going to be a 156 with camber under foot and rockered tip and tail. (no, you don't have to weight it out to see the rocker ). Long effective edge, with a short tip and tail. The rocker extends from insert packs fore and aft, so I was able to shorten up the tip and tail.
Everything is ready to be pressed but it will be a few weeks before I get to it.
I wanted to post a few pics with some helpful tips.
First is edges. Make sure they fit before you glue them.
There is no glue on that edge. Also notice where the edge is cut off. To get the fit I trace the edge with a mechanical pencil and then cut the base to the right size.
Rabbiting for the edge.
The bit is set for the right depth of the edge. I make a few test cuts too make sure it's right, and then I eyeball it along the length of the core. It's really easy to follow the sidewall, and if you do get off it's really not a big deal.
Prepping the material.
Base with two strips of black vds for the running length of each edge. 4 squares of natural vds for the contact point and end of the edge attachment. 4 strips of kevlar biaxial tape for reinforcement of the edges where the bindings will be.
Core prep:
Core with carbon fiber strips through the rocker point and the tip and tail. Carbon fiber pads that the inserts get mounted through. VDS squares for over the inserts and carbon fiber. VDS strips for above and below the sidewall.
Everything is ready to be pressed but it will be a few weeks before I get to it.
I wanted to post a few pics with some helpful tips.
First is edges. Make sure they fit before you glue them.
There is no glue on that edge. Also notice where the edge is cut off. To get the fit I trace the edge with a mechanical pencil and then cut the base to the right size.
Rabbiting for the edge.
The bit is set for the right depth of the edge. I make a few test cuts too make sure it's right, and then I eyeball it along the length of the core. It's really easy to follow the sidewall, and if you do get off it's really not a big deal.
Prepping the material.
Base with two strips of black vds for the running length of each edge. 4 squares of natural vds for the contact point and end of the edge attachment. 4 strips of kevlar biaxial tape for reinforcement of the edges where the bindings will be.
Core prep:
Core with carbon fiber strips through the rocker point and the tip and tail. Carbon fiber pads that the inserts get mounted through. VDS squares for over the inserts and carbon fiber. VDS strips for above and below the sidewall.
with all the camber/rocker options out there what made you choose this setup?
the way i see it there's basically two options to combine rocker and camber. one being the way you did it and the other putting the camber underfoot and rocker for the rest of the board (á la neversummer, burton flying v,etc).
what are the advantages/disadvantages of each of these systems?
the way i see it there's basically two options to combine rocker and camber. one being the way you did it and the other putting the camber underfoot and rocker for the rest of the board (á la neversummer, burton flying v,etc).
what are the advantages/disadvantages of each of these systems?
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- Posts: 1354
- Joined: Mon Sep 17, 2007 7:37 pm
IMO, rocker underfoot makes for more of a slidey surfy style of turns. Camber underfoot allows more of a hard charging alpine style carving. I like camber. I like the feeling of having to push the camber out to make a hard carve. I like the rebound of camber. I started messing around with rockered tips last year, and I found that the increased float was awesome. I also like that there is less of a need to detune the edges to avoid catchiness.chrismp wrote:with all the camber/rocker options out there what made you choose this setup?
the way i see it there's basically two options to combine rocker and camber. one being the way you did it and the other putting the camber underfoot and rocker for the rest of the board (á la neversummer, burton flying v,etc).
what are the advantages/disadvantages of each of these systems?
This board is for another of my friends that calls Alpental their home mountain. The terrain we ride is steep and technical. Edge hold is paramount and so camber (underfoot) is king.
Check out Jones snowboards line up. All of their boards have camber underfoot, with varying degrees of tip/tail rocker.
Also, the rocker I have used and am using on this board is actually a lifted flat section. So, it will still flex in to the turn instead of already being shaped to the carve. Does that make sense?
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- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
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- Posts: 1354
- Joined: Mon Sep 17, 2007 7:37 pm
heh, glued the sidewalls on after planing and then used an angle grinder with a sanding disc to get them to the right height. It worked, and didn't take too much time, but it stunk up the whole house for hours.twizzstyle wrote:Did you do that core with your new planer? Cause the sidewalls look great.
I am starting a couple more boards today, and they will have wood sidewalls for the first time.
my sidewall gluing contraption is still working out great.
I use spring clamps, spare pieces of cat track and sash clamps to glue my sidewalls on. It has worked out very well for me, however, I glue them to the unprofiled core and they need to be the same thickness... i.e.
Board looks great, what's the reason for carbon rather than glass under the inserts? So they don't flex so much, rather than for impact absorption? I like the VDS idea as well. Also, is there a reason you're using biax carbon tape rather than uni directional carbon for stiffening up the tip and tail?
Board looks great, what's the reason for carbon rather than glass under the inserts? So they don't flex so much, rather than for impact absorption? I like the VDS idea as well. Also, is there a reason you're using biax carbon tape rather than uni directional carbon for stiffening up the tip and tail?
I think they put perforated carbon or Kevlar behind the inserts and pop them through this layer. When the epoxy sets it is a really strong layer for the inserts to be tightened against rather than just the softer wood. I read that on some boards people have tightened their bindings and it pulls the inserts into the wood leaving a dimple on the base.
Reinforcing the rockered section sounds like a good idea. My first rocketed skis the rocker is a bit floppy. Unidirectional carbon coming up in the next set.
Reinforcing the rockered section sounds like a good idea. My first rocketed skis the rocker is a bit floppy. Unidirectional carbon coming up in the next set.
Don't wait up, I'm off to kill Summer....
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- Posts: 1354
- Joined: Mon Sep 17, 2007 7:37 pm
carbon under the inserts instead of fiberglass is for the added strength without much of an increase in weight.
biaxial instead of uni. huh. I really hadn't thought of using uni. Using uni would probably make more sense as that small amount of crosswise fiber probably isn't stiffing anything up much at all. Although it is creating an area of more resistance for the lengthwise fibers, so it's giving it some added strength, but probably not commensurate to the added weight.
Thanks for pointing that out, I hadn't really thought about it.
biaxial instead of uni. huh. I really hadn't thought of using uni. Using uni would probably make more sense as that small amount of crosswise fiber probably isn't stiffing anything up much at all. Although it is creating an area of more resistance for the lengthwise fibers, so it's giving it some added strength, but probably not commensurate to the added weight.
Thanks for pointing that out, I hadn't really thought about it.
No probs, though it was intended as a genuine question rather than pointing out anything I thought it may be for ease of application, as the carbon tape may be a bit neater when laying it all up, and possibly less likely to "wander" when pressing.
falls - let me know if you need any additional uni directional carbon. I have shitloads that I'm not using, can give you it as a 1" wide tape or as 10mm or 20mm roving. If you only want a small amount (1-2 ski pairs worth) its free, larger amount we can work out a cost. This goes for any other Aussies who are regular contributors to the forum too if you come across this post.
falls - let me know if you need any additional uni directional carbon. I have shitloads that I'm not using, can give you it as a 1" wide tape or as 10mm or 20mm roving. If you only want a small amount (1-2 ski pairs worth) its free, larger amount we can work out a cost. This goes for any other Aussies who are regular contributors to the forum too if you come across this post.
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- Posts: 1354
- Joined: Mon Sep 17, 2007 7:37 pm
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- Posts: 1354
- Joined: Mon Sep 17, 2007 7:37 pm
-
- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA