Top sheet protection for heated press

[COsurfer]

What are you using as a top sheet protector in a heated press? I used packaging tape and it appears to have melted into the top sheet and looks like crap. Curious what others are doing. Thanks, Adam

[twizzstyle]

If you want something sticky, contact paper. We've had it up to 200 deg F with no issues.

For even better thermal resiliance, parchment paper (although its not sticky).

We put contact paper on our bases to keep epoxy from getting on them, and we put parchment paper down on our sheet metal on the mold to keep the metal from getting covered in epoxy.

I used packing tape on a pair a few years ago, and it was a huge pain to take all the tape off after pressing. The heat seemed to melt it onto the ski slightly. The contact paper peels off super easy in one piece.

[ben_mtl]

I don't put any protection when pressing and I didn't notice any problem.
Actually I'm very careful when laying up not to put any epoxy on the finished side of the topsheet or on the top cassette.
Gravity tends to send the epoxy towards the base while pressing, sometimes I have some epoxy going on the finished side on some topsheet where it's loose (meaning no core under it) but this part goes away while flashing anyway.
I would be interested in contact paper for the "after pressing" part though as topsheets can be scratched when flashing/finishing.

[MontuckyMadman]

Most topsheets you have subbed get a clear peal ply to protect until they are ready to sell in my experience.

[rockaukum]

MM are you using a top sheet? If so where are you getting it from? The stuff I got from Durasurf had no peel layer on it and I don't think SB's has it either but I may be wrong.
I have seen it but dont know where they got it or if they put it on themselves.
ra

[MontuckyMadman]

I have only used subbed topsheet I was given. It was the PBT with the feltish backer and it was subbed from the company in OR or WA where ON3P and PM Gear get it done. Came with a peal ply.
I guess if its subbed from the topside they put the peel ply on after printing/pressing. Maybe only available in mass order for production.

Ask the coda guy. I am having some subbed from a freind in WA when he does a big run.

[falls]

You can search for application tape. It is the sheet used for applying vinyl cut stickers/signs. It is sticky. I haven't used it with heat, but others have recommended it. Otherwise try a search for self adhesive peel ply or something like that.

The place ON3P etc use is Creative Edge Graphics in Auburn. Maybe give them a call and ask what they use.

I found that a search for "adhesive protective film" turns up some good options.

eg. http://www.nfk.com.au/index.php?main_pa ... ucts_id=78
http://www.aperiogroup.com.au/solutions ... bwodcDEjyw
It seems that this type of protective film is a commonly required thing in industry to protect your product while further finishing steps are done. One site I read said there were custom options for exposure to heat and the degree of stickiness.
I guess you basically want one that is ok up to 100 celsius, sticky enough to stay on while you grind the skis and doesn't leave a residue when you peel it off.

[COsurfer]

Twizz, do you use any mold release or just parchment and contact paper to protect your cassettes?

[twizzstyle]

Twizz, do you use any mold release or just parchment and contact paper to protect your cassettes?

Just parchment paper. For my first pair I did just mold release, and that only did so so. I suppose you could put down some PVA or something, but eh. More work than its worth.

The parchment paper is much wider than our cassette so there's no chance of epoxy getting on anything.

[OnDeck]

I've yet to try parchment paper. Right now I;m using contact tape on the topsheet, mold release on both cassettes AND I wrap the bottom cassette in painter's film. Overall, a pain in the ass but i hardly ever have to clean cassettes.

Perosnally, i would never try to press without tape on the topsheet. At 40-50psi there always seems to be some little smudge on there.

[cuddy]

Has anyone had any problems with any topsheet wrinkling or any other cosmetic blemishes due to using the contact paper on the topsheet? I recently used an unknown kind of sticky tape to protect the topsheet and it resulted in airbubbles above my graphic. Not too bad but still more than usual. It is a problem I have been trying to figure out anyway but the protective tape did magnify the problem. I am also using regular printer paper for my graphic and am attributing some of the bubbling to that.
Any thoughts?
Cheers,
Matt
meierskis.com

[chrismp]

wait, you're using regular printer paper with a topsheet and it sticks?!
what kind of topsheet do you use and what do you print your graphics with?
we use uhmpe topsheets and tried laser and inkjet (pigment and dye ink) printing and we couldn't get the topsheet to stick to the graphic. it always peels off.

sry i couldn't be of any help with your question.

[cuddy]

Yeah, I am using a HP 1050C and it sticks great. I used an different one the other day (much more of a shiny finish) and it peeled back. I have learned that the more shine, the less it will stick. I also used blue tissue paper and that too was too shiny.....who knows. I sure wish I could find a cheap method of sublimation.....anybody know of anyone, or a inexpensive way to do it? My next design will be using silk screening.

[OnDeck]

Cuddy, are you using tape as opposed to paper? I can see that being a problem. Almsot impossible to apply it perferctly flat, and a total piani nthe balls to get it off. Try the low-adhesion contact paper (look in the Yellow pages under "Signs-Supplies"). Easy to spreado n flat, easy to tear off, and remains unaffected by heat.

[switzch]

So if you are using parchment paper how do you stick your base to the bottom cassette during layup?