Uneven Grind...Channel for Edge Teeth

[OnDeck]

First, i know for a fact that I've read this before on this forum but can;t find it now. Anyone irritated by repeat questions please be warned.

So, I recently decided to spend some money and have a board i made proffessionaly ground, stone-tuned, etc. They came back and told me they could give a grind no problem, but that the the edge was too high and would ruin their stone.

The edge is high, but only by the thickness of the edge teeth (1/4-1/2 mm?). I;m surprised that such a small rise woudl make a difference, but it's bugging the shit out of me. So, what do people think about routing a channel for the teeth to fit into, and if you do it do you have any advice?

Thanks!

[Mongo]

Yes. Do this. It is pretty universal that this is a necessary step if you want a flat base. The easiest way is to get a bottom bearing rabbeting bit with the appropriate standoff between the OD of the tool and OD of the bearing to match your edge tooth width against your sidewall overhang. Hand held or router table will work, and whether you do this before or after you profile your flex pattern into your core might depend on what method of profiling you are using. I am milling with a CNC so I do it beforehand with no ill effects, but when I was using a planer crib I had cracking due to assumed vibration over the sidewalls.

[newguy110]

I think i found what youre talking about....is this is?

Link:
http://www.skibuilders.com/phpBB2/viewt ... ght=#14900

Hope this helps!

[OnDeck]

Thanks guys, good advice and that was the exact post I was looking for!

I'm concerned about using the rabbit bit on UHMW sidewall, but i need to sack up and try it.

[powderho]

Find a shop with Montana tuning equipment--or a shop that knows what they're doing. Yes, an edge-high ski will ruin a Wintersteiger stone, but it doesn't have to. My skis are always a bit edge high--I don't router a recess groove in the cores, and they are pretty easy to flatten. A good way to do it is to run just the edge and about a 1/2" of base material over a 1" wide wet-belt a few times. I think most shops have this type of belt. Then belt the entire base a few times focusing on the high spots. The skis should then be ready for the "soft" Wintersteiger stones. The stones on Montana base grinders are way harder. The skis have to be way messed up to groove them out. I don't blame shops for erring on the safe side though. Stones are very expensive. Personally, I've noticed shops with Wintersteiger equipment pay more attention to the tunes, they sort of have to. Shops with Montana equipment are more likely to just put them in the machine and hit go.

[Damon]

Winterstiger offers a harder stone as well, it's just harder to dress and doesn't structure the base as well.

[Idris]

Why would you ever stone grind a ski without belt grinding it first? or even without bevelling the edges? The edges shouldn't touch the stone??

[rockaukum]

Sand first, then stone. Winter does offer a harder stone. Stone should put about a 1* edge (so I'm told). Don't measure and really don't care.
Finish up with edger anyway.
ra

[OnDeck]

Update: Got around to doing this. Was terrifeid that the bit woudl rip the sidewall off, but after a couple of practice runs i sacked up and it worked fine. The cut shallow enough that it doesn;t seem to put much pressure on the sidewall.

Used a 5/8", $17 mortising bit from home depot, and a template as a guide for my laminate trimmer. Easy.