Montucky Skis
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- MontuckyMadman
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- MontuckyMadman
- Posts: 2395
- Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:41 pm
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- Posts: 1354
- Joined: Mon Sep 17, 2007 7:37 pm
The water cooling is to cool the press before the next set is put in the press.MontuckyMadman wrote:no its a heat cure epoxy. Supersap.
So you pull them at 175F hot?
Seems like more warp could come from that. Don't they have water cooling presses for production?
pull the board (skis) hot, pull them off the aluminum sheet and set on a flat surface to cool down.
how hot do you pull them? with gloves on after the recommended time at temp or do you let them cool a bit first?
I've only pressed two sets with heat. Left them overnight to cool.
The first pair were edge high (but I also didn't have a rebate in the core for the edge teeth). This second pair seems maybe to be base high (convex). Go figure?!
I've only pressed two sets with heat. Left them overnight to cool.
The first pair were edge high (but I also didn't have a rebate in the core for the edge teeth). This second pair seems maybe to be base high (convex). Go figure?!
Don't wait up, I'm off to kill Summer....
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I pull them as soon as they are done cooking. NO cool down under pressure.
When I worked in production we had cooling racks. We would pull the boards, check the camber, and then put them in the racks and either increase or decrease the camber as necessary while cooling.
I pull them out and put them on a perfectly flat table that I have and let them cool down there.
When I worked in production we had cooling racks. We would pull the boards, check the camber, and then put them in the racks and either increase or decrease the camber as necessary while cooling.
I pull them out and put them on a perfectly flat table that I have and let them cool down there.
Hey. Are these worth it? Are those mountains ride-able?
http://www.theknollsathillcrest.com/hom ... .php#avens
http://www.theknollsathillcrest.com/hom ... .php#avens
"86% of the time it works 100% of the time".
NO amount of pulling when hot OR cold makes the difference. The way for a "perfectly" flat base is in the press. If there are issues, varying in size (I'm talking 5/1000ths) it has fk all to do with WHEN you pull, and everything to do with your molds. I'm just sayin'. If I get a closer +/- .000 base after cooling, then that's what I mean. It doesn't mean it's the best way or the only way to do it. I remain quite sure that given hotpulls, lack of consideration for the different responses we have in materials AND our BTSR can ALL be engineered out in a "perfect" mold. Period.
"86% of the time it works 100% of the time".
- MontuckyMadman
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Sorry, but you are wrong.Brazen wrote:NO amount of pulling when hot OR cold makes the difference. The way for a "perfectly" flat base is in the press. If there are issues, varying in size (I'm talking 5/1000ths) it has fk all to do with WHEN you pull, and everything to do with your molds. I'm just sayin'. If I get a closer +/- .000 base after cooling, then that's what I mean. It doesn't mean it's the best way or the only way to do it. I remain quite sure that given hotpulls, lack of consideration for the different responses we have in materials AND our BTSR can ALL be engineered out in a "perfect" mold. Period.
You want proof? Build a test board with one diagonal strip of carbon fiber. I guarantee you that your board will be twisted.
Fact is that different material expands and contracts differently when heated and cooled.
A slow ramp down in heat as happens when you leave the laminate to cool under pressure exacerbates this problem.
Leaving the board in the press while the press cools down is NOT beneficial in anyway whatsoever. There is no reason to do it.
Haha, I'm glad you're back . Let's just say, that for whatever insane reason, I decide to place a single stringer diagonally...you're telling me I can't mute the fault out by engineering my mold to compensate? Or that time under pressure and process temperatures don't effect it? Maybe I should have invested all my money in cats...
"86% of the time it works 100% of the time".
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I'm saying if you put it in a "perfect" mold, that it would come out twisted. Of course if you twisted your mold the exact right amount in the opposite direct you could compensate for the problem.Brazen wrote:Haha, I'm glad you're back . Let's just say, that for whatever insane reason, I decide to place a single stringer diagonally...you're telling me I can't mute the fault out by engineering my mold to compensate? Or that time under pressure and process temperatures don't effect it? Maybe I should have invested all my money in cats...
I'm also saying that time under pressure exacerbates the problem.
Take it out while it's still hot, and the parts that want to contract faster have the opportunity to contract without affecting the entire laminate. Keep them under pressure and the parts that want to contract create tension on the other parts and then when they are finally cooled off and released from the press.... voila... instant imperfection. As we all know the epoxy is not completely cured until a few days or a week after pressing. The material is still somewhat pliable when hot. Keeping it under pressure doesn't allow for minor variances in contraction during cooling.