22oz triax, not all the same, not even close
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I dont know how FBS's glass, which they stated is V2, would compare, I wont use it, the strands are so thick, and so loosely packed, and the stitching is so big and pronounced, that its all going to translate thru my board and look like hell when finished. The stuff I got from other V2 suppliers was even worse.
I'd build a board with the samples i got just to be curious, but I just dont want to waste all the other stuff I have to do so. It probably builds stuff with good properties, just wont be as asthetically pleasing as what I have.
I'd build a board with the samples i got just to be curious, but I just dont want to waste all the other stuff I have to do so. It probably builds stuff with good properties, just wont be as asthetically pleasing as what I have.
Doug
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fiberglass
Fiberglass Industries:
SXTW2200 Tri axial stitched
I spoke with Buddy Claypool
SXTW2200 Tri axial stitched
I spoke with Buddy Claypool
- MontuckyMadman
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uh oh, giving ideas to your competitors?Brazen wrote:Doug. Have you thought about going to a lighter triaxial and using a really tight, very light biaxial as a "veil" to stop the impression instead of trying to find something that no longer exists? I'm just sayin'...
Are you off the sauce these days?
sammer wrote: I'm still a tang on top guy.
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steer this one in a new direction....
22oz triax - 746gsm (1oz/sq yard = 33.9gsm)
The stuff I use is 283gsm in the 0 degree, 230gsm in each of +-45 degrees, and minimal 6.8gsm in the 90 degree for stitching it all together.
So that makes it 38% 0 degree, and 31% in each +/-45 degree.
Is this standard? Anyone's different to this greatly?
22oz triax - 746gsm (1oz/sq yard = 33.9gsm)
The stuff I use is 283gsm in the 0 degree, 230gsm in each of +-45 degrees, and minimal 6.8gsm in the 90 degree for stitching it all together.
So that makes it 38% 0 degree, and 31% in each +/-45 degree.
Is this standard? Anyone's different to this greatly?
Last edited by falls on Tue Jun 28, 2011 4:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
Don't wait up, I'm off to kill Summer....
FYI:
I just looked up Vectorply E-TLX 2200, which I imagine a lot of builders/pros use.
Roll Specifications
Width: 50in / 1270mm Roll weight: 220lb/100 kg roll length: 106 yd / 97 m
Fiber Architecture Data:
0 ° = 12.80 oz/sq.yd / 434 g/sq.m
45° = 5.38oz/sq.yd/182g/sq.m
-45° = 5.38 oz/sq.yd / 182 g/sq.m
So that's 54.4% 0 degree and 22.8% in each of +/- 45 degrees, which is a fair difference to what I am using. My skis must have extra torsional stiffness, but need more core thickness to make up for the reduction in longitudinal fibres.
Do you think there is a sweet spot in these %, or is it all good?
PS. Nice discussion on their web page about why stitched glass (non crimp) is better than woven glass. It's interesting in some of the kingswood skis pics/videos they use some woven glass.
link
I just looked up Vectorply E-TLX 2200, which I imagine a lot of builders/pros use.
Roll Specifications
Width: 50in / 1270mm Roll weight: 220lb/100 kg roll length: 106 yd / 97 m
Fiber Architecture Data:
0 ° = 12.80 oz/sq.yd / 434 g/sq.m
45° = 5.38oz/sq.yd/182g/sq.m
-45° = 5.38 oz/sq.yd / 182 g/sq.m
So that's 54.4% 0 degree and 22.8% in each of +/- 45 degrees, which is a fair difference to what I am using. My skis must have extra torsional stiffness, but need more core thickness to make up for the reduction in longitudinal fibres.
Do you think there is a sweet spot in these %, or is it all good?
PS. Nice discussion on their web page about why stitched glass (non crimp) is better than woven glass. It's interesting in some of the kingswood skis pics/videos they use some woven glass.
link
Don't wait up, I'm off to kill Summer....
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I got a sample of E-TLX 2200, was actually a huge sample... I love how if i wanted to be cheap, i could keep this venture afloat just by using up the sample materials I have. LOL.
Anyway, the E-TLX, once cured in a board, is very similar to the properties I've been shooting for. However in its stored or un-used rolled up state or whatever, it's super flimsy, it pulls apart and frays super easy. Its harder to cut and work with.
In other news, I've finally found the glass I've been searching for, it was a V2 off the shelf product that they no longer make due to changes in their machinery. They claim to be able to match it with new products. When I find out I'll post more because I may need help with a group buy or something, they usually only sell to distributors. We might have to become one , it'd be worth it just to get you all this wonderful triax
Anyway, the E-TLX, once cured in a board, is very similar to the properties I've been shooting for. However in its stored or un-used rolled up state or whatever, it's super flimsy, it pulls apart and frays super easy. Its harder to cut and work with.
In other news, I've finally found the glass I've been searching for, it was a V2 off the shelf product that they no longer make due to changes in their machinery. They claim to be able to match it with new products. When I find out I'll post more because I may need help with a group buy or something, they usually only sell to distributors. We might have to become one , it'd be worth it just to get you all this wonderful triax
Doug
Hey MontuckyMadman,
I believe I sold you a roll of triax last year, this is the only brand I ever used and still use it (bought 20+ rolls from a local builder) so I don't know if it's actually a good product or not. How would you rate it compared to the other triax you got an hand on ?
I personnaly don't have any problem using it but as I told, I've never tried anything else..
Thanks !
I believe I sold you a roll of triax last year, this is the only brand I ever used and still use it (bought 20+ rolls from a local builder) so I don't know if it's actually a good product or not. How would you rate it compared to the other triax you got an hand on ?
I personnaly don't have any problem using it but as I told, I've never tried anything else..
Thanks !
A bad day skiing is always better than a good one at work...