Hi all,
Long time listener first time caller.
Firstly thank you for all the info you have shared and continue to share the forum is a very very helpful spot for someone like me who is starting out.
So I have two questions around Fiberglass and Carbon,
At the moment I am at the shopping list phase,
I am planning to build skis similar to rossi S3. All mountain ski, Mid Flex, Using bamboo core, 2 -12mm -2mm
The glass that i can source is either 590g (20oz) or 750g (26oz) Triax.
Which one would you tend towards?
As I'm in New Zealand its a harder to get the exact supply's that might be available else where.
I was thinking the 590g with carbon reinforcement/stringers,
What kind of stringers are you using?
Do you run them the full length or just through sections of the ski?
Thanks
Ross
Carbon & Glass
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
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- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:25 pm
- Location: Kenmore, Wa USA
20oz is a very common weight for skis and snowboards, what people on here commonly use can range from 19oz to 22oz. 26oz seems like very heavy fiberglass to me, but who knows. It would probably work fine, it's just heavier than what is "normally" used on here. Doesn't mean it's not fine though.
I've been using 19oz triax with a 3" strip of cf full length top and bottom (I'm not sure what the weight of my cf is) with bamboo cores, and I've been loving the results.
I've been using 19oz triax with a 3" strip of cf full length top and bottom (I'm not sure what the weight of my cf is) with bamboo cores, and I've been loving the results.
I'm going to be building 10-12 pair this summer with 19 oz glass and several strands of carbon top and bottom running full length. I have some basalt fiber also that i might use as well. I'm going to try to tension my carbon strands by stapling the end to the tip spacer flash and tightening them and then stapling the opposite end.
I think the 20oz glass would be your better bet.
Edit: just talked to my friend in the snowboard biz. He say no need to tension the carbon, just keep it straight in the layup.
I think the 20oz glass would be your better bet.
Edit: just talked to my friend in the snowboard biz. He say no need to tension the carbon, just keep it straight in the layup.
Fighting gravity on a daily basis
www.Whiteroomcustomskis.com
www.Whiteroomcustomskis.com
I'll lend my support for the 20oz glass as well. I've been using some 24oz lately, and prefer the lighter stuff for sure. On the carbon front, I use multiple strips of 3mm-5mm wide in varying lay-outs, depending on the end result I'm looking for. For example, I'll often run strands in a "V" shape starting out at the point of contact in the tip, and meeting near boot center. Like Vinman said, be sure to mirror your glass and carbon on either side of the core.
Have fun!
Have fun!
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- Posts: 6
- Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2012 12:01 am
Sorry for the delayed response.
The apex would be in the underfoot area with the "arms" running towards the tip, and reaching the sides of the ski roughly at your point of contact. I do the same in the tail, using the same apex spot. I find this gives a nice boost to the torsional stiffness, while allowing the nose to stay nice and soft. If you prefer a stiffer tail, then I'd run your tail bands straight down the ski, starting from the boot center area.
I'm laying up a pair for a young ripper this week with this exact scenario.
Have fun!
The apex would be in the underfoot area with the "arms" running towards the tip, and reaching the sides of the ski roughly at your point of contact. I do the same in the tail, using the same apex spot. I find this gives a nice boost to the torsional stiffness, while allowing the nose to stay nice and soft. If you prefer a stiffer tail, then I'd run your tail bands straight down the ski, starting from the boot center area.
I'm laying up a pair for a young ripper this week with this exact scenario.
Have fun!