To rabbit before or after core profiling

[rsotak]

So on my first set of skis I rabbited the edges after core profiling. This worked well everywhere except at the tip and tail where the material was 2-2.5mm thick.

Has anyone ever tried rabbiting prior to profiling the core? It seems like it would work but I'm worried about inducing more chatter when the core is going through the planer.

[vinman]

I rabbett before profiling. Try some double sided adhesive foam mounting strips under the tip and tail.

[threeninethree]

I do it after with a laminate trimmer.

[Dr. Delam]

I have always done it after with no problems but I like the idea of doing it before. I always get a little sketched out when rabbeting as it is somewhat easy to ruin a core in a matter of seconds. I almost rabbeted the wrong side once!

I am going to do it before profiling next time.

[deepskis]

I don't do it at all..

[vinman]

I find it way easier to do it before. No worry about thin tip /tail material and it is much easier to clamp a core blank to a table than it us a profiled core.

[rsotak]

I figured it would work well. Sidewalls got glued on last night so the rabiting will come next.

[petemorgan(pmoskico)]

I dont do it either. But I think it is one of the areas that needs improment in my process and high quality ski tuners will tell me that.

I would do it before profiling

[falls]

I did it before profiling and then planed core profile.
However, I could see that the thin areas at tip and tail were flexing away from the cutting blades and when they would return to their normal position that the top of the core wasn't flat. The rebated wings off the sides were very slightly triangular in shape (flat on the underside where rebate was done, but thicker at the very edge on top than they should be).
Vinman's tip on supporting the rebated thin areas sounds like it woud solve this.

I do the rebating after now
Profile the shaped core then clamp it to a template upside down. I then use a trim router with a large diam bit and use the pilot wheel bearing that you attach to the side of the router to follow the template. It is setup to the right depth of rebate and also the right width of rebate and this router only does this task. It seems to work pretty well. No problems with doing it afterwards and gives a more consistent rebate and core flatness.

The guide is like this

[MU]

Does anyone rabbet or do something similar on tip and tail spacers as well as along sidewalls?

[artski]

No

[falls]

No rabbet on tip/tail spacer for me.

I think richuk has been placing a sheet of wood veneer in the tip/tail to match the edge teeth height. The glass is laid on the base/edge then the veneer insert then the tip spacer over the top. It just keeps every layer as a flat layer the whole way across (except the glass that can easily drape over the edge teeth/VDS). I think that is probably better, but realistically it works pretty fine without it.



Hopefully you don't mind Rich!

[iggyskier]

From my experience, easiest and most consistent method was to profile then route the edge notch using a rabbet bit on a router table. You obviously need to be careful that you don't go too deep, but that is the method I prefer if I need to do it.

[Dr. Delam]

So Iggy, are you saying that you don't do it for every pair? Just curious what the production guys are doing.

[skimann20]

I have a question. if the tip and tails are 2mm thick and my edges are 2.1mm thick how the heck do you cut this rabbet? I'm I missing something?


edit...
sorry, Did a search and found this: viewtopic.php?p=36338&sid=ed346cdb3eef4 ... f33d52daf3

So you only do the rabbet depth to the depth of the teeth plus the the VDS. so ~0.8mm?

Okay I need a drink... I feel real dumb now.