Boards of Prey split
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Boards of Prey split
Hey guys,
So, I am starting a new topic as the old one, although not much has happened in it is quite old. I wanted to keep this separate and hopefully update it a little more.
I am making a split so I can start playing a little in the sidecountry/back country and possibly do my av cert this year on it.
It's a 162
The nose is a little wider than the tail and longer.
It will have standard rocker but early rise in the nose. The extra lines on the board are the carbon stringers I plan to put in it.
Any feedback from you pro builders is welcome. Don't look at the core, it's just how snocad built it.
I based it on a Jones board I like the look of but tweaked it a little bit.
p.s A big thanks to Dan Graf, Head Monkey (for Monkey cam) and Richie for the work on snocad!
So, I am starting a new topic as the old one, although not much has happened in it is quite old. I wanted to keep this separate and hopefully update it a little more.
I am making a split so I can start playing a little in the sidecountry/back country and possibly do my av cert this year on it.
It's a 162
The nose is a little wider than the tail and longer.
It will have standard rocker but early rise in the nose. The extra lines on the board are the carbon stringers I plan to put in it.
Any feedback from you pro builders is welcome. Don't look at the core, it's just how snocad built it.
I based it on a Jones board I like the look of but tweaked it a little bit.
p.s A big thanks to Dan Graf, Head Monkey (for Monkey cam) and Richie for the work on snocad!
Last edited by the.quass on Thu Apr 23, 2015 4:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Boards of Prey split
Hey don't forget Dan Graf he's the SnoCAD-X creator!!!!the.quass wrote:Hey guys,
So, I am starting a new topic as the old one, although not much has happened in it is quite old. I wanted to keep this separate and hopefully update it a little more.
I am making a split so I can start playing a little in the sidecountry/back country and possibly do my av cert this year on it.
It's a 162
The nose is a little wider than the tail and longer.
It will have standard rocker but early rise in the nose. The extra lines on the board are the carbon stringers I plan to put in it.
Any feedback from you pro builders is welcome. Don't look at the core, it's just how snocad built it.
I based it on a Jones board I like the look of but tweaked it a little bit.
p.s A big thanks to Head Monkey and Richie for the work on snocad!
I can help you with all the splitboard specific dimensions if you need them too so sing out if you want help there mate. Board looks great and I love the name too.
cheers
Rich
MonkeyCAM and SnoCAD - https://github.com/mikemag
Ski binding mounting https://github.com/splitn2/DrillSki
Richard Harcourt | www.splitn2.com | Christchurch New Zealand
rich@splitn2.com | www.facebook.com/splitn2
Ski binding mounting https://github.com/splitn2/DrillSki
Richard Harcourt | www.splitn2.com | Christchurch New Zealand
rich@splitn2.com | www.facebook.com/splitn2
Hey Richie,
Thanks I made an edit... How did I forget that!
In terms of split specific dims do you mean placement of hardware etc?
that would be great if you have it.
Also, what thickness are you running on your cores for a split? Do you change? I imagine a 1 - 1.5mm thicker in the middle/underfoot tapering to tip and tails at 2mm still.
Thanks I made an edit... How did I forget that!
In terms of split specific dims do you mean placement of hardware etc?
that would be great if you have it.
Also, what thickness are you running on your cores for a split? Do you change? I imagine a 1 - 1.5mm thicker in the middle/underfoot tapering to tip and tails at 2mm still.
yup I can dig out the insert spacings for the touring pivots and pucks its quite critical so your split interface fits well as most splitboard gear is intolerant to poorly measured hole patterns.the.quass wrote:Hey Richie,
Thanks I made an edit... How did I forget that!
In terms of split specific dims do you mean placement of hardware etc?
that would be great if you have it.
Also, what thickness are you running on your cores for a split? Do you change? I imagine a 1 - 1.5mm thicker in the middle/underfoot tapering to tip and tails at 2mm still.
honestly for your first board , don't change much from your standard profile. My boards still come out way too stiff and I'm still working down to the right thickness by trial and error so I'm not there yet myself. Splitboards still end up about as stiff in ride mode and when you're in tour mode it is still supporting the same weight accross both boards so they don't flex much unless you're bridging accross a snow gap like stream or small crevice or undulations in terrain. So I wouldn't add much at all if any eh. cheers Rich
MonkeyCAM and SnoCAD - https://github.com/mikemag
Ski binding mounting https://github.com/splitn2/DrillSki
Richard Harcourt | www.splitn2.com | Christchurch New Zealand
rich@splitn2.com | www.facebook.com/splitn2
Ski binding mounting https://github.com/splitn2/DrillSki
Richard Harcourt | www.splitn2.com | Christchurch New Zealand
rich@splitn2.com | www.facebook.com/splitn2
-
- Posts: 85
- Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2012 8:57 pm
- Location: Fall City, Wa.
- Contact:
I've built five splits now and standard insert spacing I use for my splits is 90mm across by 25mm between inserts. I usually go with 12 inserts either side (tip/tail) for a total of 24 for the pucks. This gives some room to move your stance around a bit. For the climbing insert spacing, buy your hardware first then center it where you like on the core before you drill the holes (everyone is a bit different). In general, place the toe mount just ahead of centerline. Go look around at the factory splits; find one you like and copy the offsets. I run mine at 20-40mm offset towards the tail. Its a powder board after all so give yourself some extra tip.
Hope that helps, hit me back if you want more info.
Cheers, -Don from Ryme
Hope that helps, hit me back if you want more info.
Cheers, -Don from Ryme
www.rymexp.com
On the edge of control is a good place to be!
On the edge of control is a good place to be!
Here's the industry standard templates: http://www.splitboardbindings.com/wp-co ... es_A02.pdf
This works for all major splitboard binding brands. If you want more stance options reduce the spacing between the binding inserts from 2" to 1" and add more inserts.
This works for all major splitboard binding brands. If you want more stance options reduce the spacing between the binding inserts from 2" to 1" and add more inserts.
Hey there lad's.
I have fallen off the wagon a little with this but want to get back on board.
I have ripped some stuff into cad and want to get the core cut in cad. I have found someone to do this.
Plans are for the following.
Design will be like this. Should be interesting.
Core profile like this. It should be 2mm at the tip and tail....
What do you think?
Anything you can see that I should change? I have made the core a little thicker as I am a big lad and it will be a split so I imagine it will need to be more like the thickness of a ski.
I have fallen off the wagon a little with this but want to get back on board.
I have ripped some stuff into cad and want to get the core cut in cad. I have found someone to do this.
Plans are for the following.
Design will be like this. Should be interesting.
Core profile like this. It should be 2mm at the tip and tail....
What do you think?
Anything you can see that I should change? I have made the core a little thicker as I am a big lad and it will be a split so I imagine it will need to be more like the thickness of a ski.
I don't know that much about snowboards but I think that is going to be stiff.
A 160cm ski with 13mm thick core tapering to 3mm is prob going to be pretty stiff. Just reading back through the thread some of the other guys that have built splits said that you don't need to significantly increase core thickness.
A 160cm ski with 13mm thick core tapering to 3mm is prob going to be pretty stiff. Just reading back through the thread some of the other guys that have built splits said that you don't need to significantly increase core thickness.
Don't wait up, I'm off to kill Summer....
Hey Falls,falls wrote:I don't know that much about snowboards but I think that is going to be stiff.
A 160cm ski with 13mm thick core tapering to 3mm is prob going to be pretty stiff. Just reading back through the thread some of the other guys that have built splits said that you don't need to significantly increase core thickness.
The tip and tail will be 2mm.
I am a big dude, 6 foot tall and over 100 kegs. Might reduce it down to 12 but don't want to go to skinny.
DC
- MontuckyMadman
- Posts: 2395
- Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:41 pm
Yeah we did a split with some bamboo and poplar and ash and 22oz triax at 160cm core the thickest was 7mm.. Was pretty stiff for a 6' tall 200lb guy. The overall width was 300mm.
The shorter the beam the thinner it can be to acheive the same stiffness. Skis are thick cause their long and skinny.
The shorter the beam the thinner it can be to acheive the same stiffness. Skis are thick cause their long and skinny.
sammer wrote: I'm still a tang on top guy.
- Head Monkey
- Posts: 310
- Joined: Sun Jul 17, 2005 4:53 pm
- Location: Carnation, WA
- Contact:
Consider that a **tall** standard snowboard insert is only .325" (8.25mm). That would be a stiff board for any rider. Alpine race board inserts are .410" (10.4mm) or so; narrower boards, and designed to be stiff as all get out. Shoot for the 8mm range, unless you're 300lbs+
Everything I know about snowboard building, almost: MonkeyWiki, a guide to snowboard construction
Free open source ski and snowboard CADCAM: MonkeyCAM, snoCAD-X
Free open source ski and snowboard CADCAM: MonkeyCAM, snoCAD-X