Planer destroys cores
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Planer destroys cores
Im sure this question has already been asked, but what methods are being used to stop the core being uplifted and destroyed at the tips and tails whilst running through the planer? I can get a perfect outcome when the sidewall is not attached but as soon as i try profile the core with sidewalls attached it creates to much friction and destroys the core when it get around 3-4mm.
Also does anyone know how a wide belt sander goes in profiling cores?
I hope someone can help cause I'm going crazy over here!!!!
Also does anyone know how a wide belt sander goes in profiling cores?
I hope someone can help cause I'm going crazy over here!!!!
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Yup it's been discussed many times. Here's a few ways to resolve the problem. Use a dab of hot glue on the tips and tails to hold them in place. Make the cores longer than needed, you're going to get sniping from the planer so leave a few sacrificial cm's on each end. Take very shallow passes when you to get down to 4mm in the tips and tails. I use no-skid tape on my planer crib to keep the cores in place. Works pretty good.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
Copious hot glue on the tip and tail, grip tape, shallow passes, sharp blades, sacrificial material at the tip and tail.
Reglue at the first sign of core damage. It's not friction that causes the damage, its vibration. The vibration comes from the cores not being secure to the sled. It usually means your adhesion to the sled is lost os is bad. Don't try to plane out the damage. Stop immediately and reglue, And take another pass without adjusting the planer.
I've only lost 2 sets of cores in close to 60 pair using this method and often plane my sacrificial material at the tip and tail to less than 2mm.
Reglue at the first sign of core damage. It's not friction that causes the damage, its vibration. The vibration comes from the cores not being secure to the sled. It usually means your adhesion to the sled is lost os is bad. Don't try to plane out the damage. Stop immediately and reglue, And take another pass without adjusting the planer.
I've only lost 2 sets of cores in close to 60 pair using this method and often plane my sacrificial material at the tip and tail to less than 2mm.
Last edited by vinman on Thu Apr 07, 2016 4:20 am, edited 1 time in total.
Fighting gravity on a daily basis
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- MontuckyMadman
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seriously... you should search on this one. there is SOOOOOOOO much info out there on various fixes. you've gotta search for key word: 'WAAAAHAHAHA CHATA CHATA ERRRRRR " ;-)
http://www.skibuilders.com/phpBB2/viewt ... c&start=45
viewtopic.php?t=3934&postdays=0&postord ... bdebafabcb
one of my build threads has my fix... I believe my fix was cutting a ~45Deg angle on the leading edge of the core. this helped with the knife edge not ripping up at the wood. In addition, once it starts going wrong, it's only going to get worse.... stop immediately and fix.
MM: I was thinking of going this route, thoughts? :-P http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/412063 ... oCEo_w_wcB
http://www.skibuilders.com/phpBB2/viewt ... c&start=45
viewtopic.php?t=3934&postdays=0&postord ... bdebafabcb
one of my build threads has my fix... I believe my fix was cutting a ~45Deg angle on the leading edge of the core. this helped with the knife edge not ripping up at the wood. In addition, once it starts going wrong, it's only going to get worse.... stop immediately and fix.
MM: I was thinking of going this route, thoughts? :-P http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/412063 ... oCEo_w_wcB
- MontuckyMadman
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Skimann20, I've been thinking the same thing but something that wouldn't require me to build another shop to house it such as a supermax. Large enough to handle most DIY projects and ski/boards. This would be a good option to get the tip/tail down to 2 - 1.5mm w/o the tear out of a planer.
http://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/sup ... gQod_rwAVg
http://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/sup ... gQod_rwAVg
- MontuckyMadman
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I also think that it would not work for profiling a core as I don't think it would effectively press the core down into the mould.
Though I might be wrong there.
The carpenter shop close to me has a huge one and he helped me sand my cores down to 12mm using it. I then used the router to do the rest.
Was no problem with clogging, and it was a beautiful machine. DIgitally controlled you could dial in the depth and all you had to do was feed the cores into it.
Though I might be wrong there.
The carpenter shop close to me has a huge one and he helped me sand my cores down to 12mm using it. I then used the router to do the rest.
Was no problem with clogging, and it was a beautiful machine. DIgitally controlled you could dial in the depth and all you had to do was feed the cores into it.
I am nobody. Nobody's perfect, so I must be perfect.
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I was thinking of using the drum sander (80grit) on the last few passes to get it down to 1.5mm - 2mm to avoid tear out that a planer can cause. A drum sander wouldn't be a good option to do the entire core.MontuckyMadman wrote:Sd. I would be willing to bet that would not work to profile core. It would get clogged super quick.the belts on those over head sanders are like 4 feet in diameter.
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I saw on local craigslist big belt sanders frequently in the price range 1k to 2500....wish have needs or space for one of thoseMontuckyMadman wrote:Jesus. Pretty sure you can can find used timewasters for 10k. That thing will do it all.
I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work.
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I think Burton profiles core with a huge-ass sander also
Fighting gravity on a daily basis
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;-) gonna buy it! runs on a 20amp right? :-)skimann20 wrote:I was just being a smart ass. ;-P I believe never summer uses one of these for their cores.MontuckyMadman wrote:Sd. I would be willing to bet that would not work to profile core. It would get clogged super quick.the belts on those over head sanders are like 4 feet in diameter.
yuppp found it: