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splitboard hardware

 
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the.quass



Joined: 04 Mar 2013
Posts: 114
Location: Melbourne, Australia

PostPosted: Fri Apr 10, 2015 3:22 pm    Post subject: splitboard hardware Reply with quote

Has anyone thought about making their own splitty hardware before? I don't mean pucks and plates, more clips and hooks.
The voile ones look very basic and seem like you could make them out of steel or something lighter easily.
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chrismp



Joined: 13 Feb 2009
Posts: 1222
Location: Vienna, Austria

PostPosted: Fri Apr 10, 2015 11:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I started using Prowder. Cheaper and better than both Voile and Karakoram.
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Dtrain



Joined: 18 May 2011
Posts: 516
Location: Prince Rupert/Terrace B.C.

PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 6:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Second that for Prowder. The stuff is great. Just have to make sure you don't over tighten the tip and tail hooks, and lock tight the screws.
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mammuth



Joined: 28 Oct 2014
Posts: 237
Location: somewhere in the alps

PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

check out the plum stuff as well
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pmg



Joined: 01 Dec 2012
Posts: 426
Location: Sonthofen

PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2015 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A friend of mine has the voile. You hopefully wont :)
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richie



Joined: 23 Jun 2010
Posts: 182
Location: New Zealand

PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2015 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dtrain wrote:
Second that for Prowder. The stuff is great. Just have to make sure you don't over tighten the tip and tail hooks, and lock tight the screws.


definitely locktite the lot the Prowder Saddles especially have a lot of screws with typically 3-4 turns of engagement only. Spend some time grinding any sharp edges off the Saddles (pucks). Precision drilling required for the tip/tail Hoss hooks too. I like it because its cheaper and quite a cool look but to be honest in the dozens of boards I have built and serviced I still think the Voile solution works pretty well for durability and functionality - although all solutions have their positive benefits for sure. If you like it then use it!
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MonkeyCAM and SnoCAD - https://github.com/mikemag
Ski binding mounting https://github.com/splitn2/DrillSki

Richard Harcourt | www.splitn2.com | Christchurch New Zealand
rich@splitn2.com | www.facebook.com/splitn2
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24Dave



Joined: 03 Oct 2011
Posts: 74

PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really like the Plum hooks but they wont be sold/exported to the USA until next year, not sure what that means for the Aus winter or for export to AUs. I bought some through a e-tailer from spain who is now sold out, except for maybe orange ones. snow.inn

I have made my own clips as have some folks on splitboard.com, I'll post photos later. They didn't take too long. I started by drilling a 1/4 inch hole for the inside radius, then traced the pattern out with a knife blade, jigsaw cut and filed them down the rest of the way. It's a bit of old school craft work. Using steel would be heavy and hard to file, I used 1/8th 7000something series aluminum, just flat, no fold like the voile clips and fixed them so they don't swivel.

Prices do seem a bit high for the plastic clips on the ends of the boards, but I don't see much to improve on there. They keep the twigs out, not much more need for them other than holding the board together w/o bindings on.
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mammuth



Joined: 28 Oct 2014
Posts: 237
Location: somewhere in the alps

PostPosted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 5:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Speak to the guys from plum. Maybe theres a way. I dont know why the have a problem to put the hooks in an envelope and send somewhere...

Btw. there are no screws included with the plums. Have some of the woms here, the quality and look is supernice.

Do not know why they dont offer the tip/tail hooks need to ask.

It seems they have a distri in AUS:

Ski Mountaineering Equipment
Grant GUISE
1 Woodbridge Rd
Cashmere
8022 – Christchurch
New Zealand
Tel: +64 (0) 212 517 096
grant@skimountaineering.org
www.smenz.co.nz
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24Dave



Joined: 03 Oct 2011
Posts: 74

PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2015 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote



I filed these out a bit of 1/8th thick 7075 alu from Macmaster-Carr. It helps to make the shape curved instead of straight lines in case they end up lining up not exactly parallel. I start by drilling 1/4 inch holes in the alu to make the inside curve, then place a template and score around the shape I want with a utility knife, then jigsaw followed by old school filing to get them just right. I like to countersink the screws and keep it low profile instead of having dorky bolts sticking up.



I put one standard M6 insert in each half of the core so I can mount them without drilling through the base. then once I line them up right, I secure each clip with a ski screw. The first screw, the M6 into the insert takes the vertical load, the ski screw just keeps the clip from pivoting. You need a 90 degree countersink for the M6 and ski screw.

This works well with the Plum WOM hooks too, it helps to use a M6 over an M5 or smaller insert because you have to file out the hole for the larger screw and this lets you adjust the location of each clip by maybe 1mm which helps compensate for the difficulty in finishing your split perfectly in reference to the insert location.
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moonchild



Joined: 06 May 2015
Posts: 14
Location: Slovenia, Alps

PostPosted: Sat Apr 08, 2017 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not to open new topic, I will ask here. Has anybody tried to build bridge in splitboard where hooks/clips are placed and mount screws into the board? New Jones split with ultraclips did that. They dont't drill through the base for screws, but they make little thicker area (bridge) where hooks are and build screws into core. It looks so much more profesional with no screw heads in base, but it might be tricky for accurate position.
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mammuth



Joined: 28 Oct 2014
Posts: 237
Location: somewhere in the alps

PostPosted: Sat Apr 08, 2017 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Works only with vacuum pressing (or a proper 3d mold)
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24Dave



Joined: 03 Oct 2011
Posts: 74

PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2017 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have done ski screws into Ipe wood plugs set in the deck with success but that is with a much thicker board than standard and vacuum pressing the deck composites. The above picture is one insert and one ski screw per side.

I have often thought that a cool approach for a thinner more standard board would be to router out a little rectangle in the core and epoxy in a 1/8 or 3/16 aluminum plate. Then laminate the core with extra reinforcement over the area. After pressing then thread 10/32 screws or M4/5 screws into the aluminum to mount your clips. It sort of looks like Nitro did that a few years ago, and still do on their splits, but I have never confirmed that they thread into metal.

Third way is to just laminate hooks made from carbon fiber plate right onto the deck. Wildschnee/Markus has done this. They'd wear down a bit over time, but I think tight fits are overrated. My older worn in boards are the fastest to transition in icy conditions, but people want them to look tight.
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moonchild



Joined: 06 May 2015
Posts: 14
Location: Slovenia, Alps

PostPosted: Tue Apr 11, 2017 12:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks 24Dave. I am vacuum pressing and will try to build into the core screws for karakoram ultraclips. Clips have slotted holes so the fit want be a problem. Instead of countersink in base I will make countersink into woodcore. So everything will be the same, just screws will be 1,2mm higher. And ofcourse before layup I will made holes for screws in topsheet which is veener in my case. Jones also does that with ultraclips, but they have inserts instead of screws in core.
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24Dave



Joined: 03 Oct 2011
Posts: 74

PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Let us know how it worked out. It looks like it clips are not that sensitive to being perfectly lined up along the nose to tail direction. If they don't line up you can always fabricate a basic clip like I do and template the holes for where the screw posts are.

I kinda think these clips and the ideas to make the seam tight are all a bit of overkill. My old board with a bunch of slop in standard Voile clips are the easiest to transition, boards rip, maybe snow is too good out here in Utah to see the difference.
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