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Entropy CLR clear coat

 
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falls



Joined: 27 Oct 2009
Posts: 1425
Location: Wangaratta, Australia

PostPosted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 7:00 pm    Post subject: Entropy CLR clear coat Reply with quote

Hi Everyone
I am going to order some entropy CLR to clear coat a veneer topped pair of skis instead of the household outdoor polyurethane I have used in the past.
The skis were skim coated with epoxy at layup.
Just wondering what method people have had success with for applying the clear coat. eg. foam roller, paint brush, number of coats/one coat then next when epoxy just goes tacky as in surfboard hot coating?
And also if you sand/polish the clear coat or not after you have applied it.

I am planning to take the skim coat back with 100/120 grit sandpaper before application and have sanded the bamboo sidewalls with 120 grit.

Thanks for any input.
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vinman



Joined: 09 Nov 2007
Posts: 1283
Location: The tin foil isle

PostPosted: Sat Apr 29, 2017 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

copied from an older post in another thread


Things I've learned about using an epoxy top over wood veneer after about 80 pair or so.

Skim coat your veneer with epoxy during pressing to get a consistent color and improve durability.

Epoxy your inlays on the backside of the topsheet to decrease the chance of voids. Don't use too much paper tape on your inlays for the same reason.

Use 40- 60 grit sand paper to structure the epoxy skim coat before applying your top coat to improve adhesion.

Wipe with a light solvent to get rid of any fingerprints, oils etc. and Be sure you clean the top of the ski very well with a damp cloth to remove dust from the flashing and structuring process.

Use a heat gun to pop your bubbles instead of a torch. I found the torch, if too hot, would give a weird patterned finish.

Be sure you cure at a warm enough temp in a humidity controlled room to prevent epoxy blush.

Be sure your brush is clean, free of dust, debris and loose bristles.

Gently re-brush and heat gun areas that begins to bubble or orange peel to get things smooth. Repeat as needed until the epoxy begins to gel. Use the heat gun on spots that you rebrush to smooth things out as needed.

You can use a pin to pick out stay fibers from the brush.

At some point you reach tHe don't mess with it stage....

Always Keep the heat gun moving to avoid overheating the epoxy.

Don't apply it too thick as it can crack, especially at the base of the tip where it tends to pool a little.
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falls



Joined: 27 Oct 2009
Posts: 1425
Location: Wangaratta, Australia

PostPosted: Sun Apr 30, 2017 2:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks vin. I knew it was on here somewhere, couldn't find it even using the google site search.
You just put on one coat? Sand and polish afterwards, or its good enough without any work after application?
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vinman



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PostPosted: Sun Apr 30, 2017 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just one coat. If you do it right, it should be nice, even and glossy.

Also I find it chips less if you do a shoulder bevel. I use 15 deg sidewall bevel and a 45 deg shoulder bevel. Along that top edge of the sidewall.
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grainhog



Joined: 22 Feb 2016
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Location: Missoula, MT

PostPosted: Thu Jun 01, 2017 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you use mold-release and an aluminum caul while pressing the wet epoxy-covered wood veneer? If you don't polish, can you achieve a good-looking matte finish with this approach? Do you find these to be hold up quite well to "abuse" after sidewall bevel/45 degree edge chamfer? Thank you.
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MontuckyMadman



Joined: 20 Jun 2008
Posts: 2329

PostPosted: Thu Jun 01, 2017 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Parchment paper taped to the top cassette
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falls



Joined: 27 Oct 2009
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Location: Wangaratta, Australia

PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 11:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

with mould release on aluminium you get an ok finish that you could take back to matt. The big issue is that most epoxy used in ski building isn't UV stabilised so the finish will deteriorate/yellow with time and sun exposure. In the past I have sanded back and sprayed on a UV stabilised outdoor polyurethane, but the stuff I have used isn't that tough.
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vinman



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PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Entropy CLR is UV stablized.

Parchment paper works great but use spray adhesive to attach it to your top aluminum layer. It will get pulled tight as you apply pressure and minimize bubbles/wrinkles/voids.
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falls



Joined: 27 Oct 2009
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Location: Wangaratta, Australia

PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 11:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any luck saving the brush for next time vin?
I've tried the white vinegar but not convinced I would want to use the brush again for finish work.
I tried acetone, but think was a bit late in the cure to save it. The volume of solvent required to keep the brush functional seems large to me.
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vinman



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PostPosted: Mon Jun 05, 2017 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't bother saving brushes when using epoxy. I just buy cheap brushes, which might be more work in the long run because of loose bristles, dirt and stay fibers that end up in the finish no matter how well I clean them before using them...

I've tried vacuuming them, using a fan while combing the bristles with my fingers, pulling on the bristles, you name it, I can't seem to keep fibers and stuff out of my epoxy. It is defining one of the more picky things about using an epoxy top coat.
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mammuth



Joined: 28 Oct 2014
Posts: 241
Location: somewhere in the alps

PostPosted: Tue Jun 06, 2017 2:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Imho its best to spray topcoat. You can try to roll it, but this depends on the viscosity of the top coat. Brushes are always pita with this application, better when you use expensive brushes ... but like said before ... one way use...
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