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Cutting out flesh on tip/tail with no edge
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motoman



Joined: 15 Jan 2015
Posts: 242
Location: Ukraine

PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 1:11 am    Post subject: Cutting out flesh on tip/tail with no edge Reply with quote

Hello everyone,
if there any guys doing powder boards or skis with no edges on the tip and tail?
I tried to make a few snowboards with small fish tail but was not sure about making tail with no edges after effective zone.
I am not sure that it will be possible to follow the curve of the snowboard contour on the place that do not have the edge since nothing will hold blade if something goes wrong.

What methods do you use to cut flesh on boards and skis with no continuous edge?

Here is picture how I do it for now, but I would like to make deeper tail.



Thanks for attention
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mammuth



Joined: 28 Oct 2014
Posts: 266
Location: somewhere in the alps

PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just per hand and eye. You have the base as template. Cutting with the saw and grinding with belt sander.


Btw. very nice base graphics you have!
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chrismp



Joined: 13 Feb 2009
Posts: 1254
Location: Vienna, Austria

PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 11:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What mammuth said. Just use the base as a guideline and be careful during cutting/sanding.

Is that base graphic sublimated? Looks really sharp!
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mammuth



Joined: 28 Oct 2014
Posts: 266
Location: somewhere in the alps

PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 12:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks almost like its sublimated on the glide side of the base!?
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motoman



Joined: 15 Jan 2015
Posts: 242
Location: Ukraine

PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 11:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mammuth wrote:
Looks almost like its sublimated on the glide side of the base!?

Thanks, Tom. The sublimation was performed on the rough treated side. The pic you see is glide contact side.
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motoman



Joined: 15 Jan 2015
Posts: 242
Location: Ukraine

PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 11:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

chrismp wrote:

Is that base graphic sublimated? Looks really sharp!

Yes, this is sublimation.
Basically it very depend on the graphic you make and color of inks. Some colors look more straight than the other. Thin lines (less than 2 mm) are the biggest problem.
Here are some pics of very small objects.

Closer look
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falls



Joined: 27 Oct 2009
Posts: 1432
Location: Wangaratta, Australia

PostPosted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 1:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just use a jigsaw with the ski base side up and follow close to the edge of the base without touching it. Not hard after some practice. Then as the others said using a belt or drum sander to clean it up back to the base material. I use a drum covered in sandpaper that mounts in a drill press. With a deep swallow tail you would need to use something like that (drill press drum, bobbin sander or a sanding drum mounted to a dremel maybe) as a long belt sander or hand held belt sander would be hard to get right up into the deepest part of the swallow tail.


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mammuth



Joined: 28 Oct 2014
Posts: 266
Location: somewhere in the alps

PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 1:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ey falls. This drum thingy looks nice. Do you have more info / links ?
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motoman



Joined: 15 Jan 2015
Posts: 242
Location: Ukraine

PostPosted: Tue Jun 12, 2018 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

falls wrote:
I just use a jigsaw with the ski base side up and follow close to the edge of the base without touching it.

Hi, Falls. By the by, do you use carbide blades or blades for metal?
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rnordell



Joined: 24 Feb 2010
Posts: 47

PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2018 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really like the oscillating belt and spindle sander made by Ridgid tools. The oscillating helps the belt or spindle wear more evenly. By using the belt along the edge it prevents putting too much pressure on any one area and helps give a smooth edge along the entire length. No subtle nicks from a spindle that potentially need filing out.
https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/oscillating-edge-belt-spindle-sander
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falls



Joined: 27 Oct 2009
Posts: 1432
Location: Wangaratta, Australia

PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2018 3:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a jigsaw blade for metal, they cut the fibreglass better.
I got the 3 inch diam by 3 inch length drum sander from lee valley tools I think or one of the other USA woodworking stores. I don't have the bearng support bit but it would be nice because I definitely get a bit of deflection on the drum (it doesn't really matter because I bevel the sidewall anyway)
http://www.rockler.com/15-piece-drum-sander-kit-and-replacement-sleeves Rockler.
I think the bearing support comes from lee valley. You can recess it into a tabletop to get a sanding surface all the way down to the table level.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,42500,42501&p=20200
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kit



Joined: 07 Aug 2015
Posts: 17

PostPosted: Thu Jun 14, 2018 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really like these for cutting flash - best I've found. The zero kerf lets me cut flush to edges without damaging them, and they seem to last longer than others by far. You can get them at Home Depot even cheaper than Amazon - I think about 12 bucks for 5.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J1CSWI/?coliid=I27BAEUO30G8XD&colid=FY3MTEAT2093&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
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motoman



Joined: 15 Jan 2015
Posts: 242
Location: Ukraine

PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2018 6:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rnordell wrote:
I really like the oscillating belt and spindle sander made by Ridgid tools. The oscillating helps the belt or spindle wear more evenly. By using the belt along the edge it prevents putting too much pressure on any one area and helps give a smooth edge along the entire length. No subtle nicks from a spindle that potentially need filing out.
https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/oscillating-edge-belt-spindle-sander


That is awesome device, newer seen it before. Once I saw something similar, but way bigger on NS factory tour. It works the same way up and down. It really saves sandpaper.
If it were possible to add some kind of emulsion, it would be great!
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motoman



Joined: 15 Jan 2015
Posts: 242
Location: Ukraine

PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2018 6:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

falls wrote:

I got the 3 inch diam by 3 inch length drum sander from lee valley tools I think or one of the other USA woodworking stores. I don't have the bearng support bit but it would be nice because I definitely get a bit of deflection on the drum (it doesn't really matter because I bevel the sidewall anyway)
http://www.rockler.com/15-piece-drum-sander-kit-and-replacement-sleeves Rockler.
I think the bearing support comes from lee valley. You can recess it into a tabletop to get a sanding surface all the way down to the table level.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,42500,42501&p=20200

Great setup!Newer seen it. Sometimes I use drum sander for fishtails, it can be set up on the same device I use for cutting edges.
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motoman



Joined: 15 Jan 2015
Posts: 242
Location: Ukraine

PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2018 6:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kit wrote:
I really like these for cutting flash - best I've found. The zero kerf lets me cut flush to edges without damaging them, and they seem to last longer than others by far. You can get them at Home Depot even cheaper than Amazon - I think about 12 bucks for 5.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J1CSWI/?coliid=I27BAEUO30G8XD&colid=FY3MTEAT2093&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it


I use blades for metal as Falls does, but they lasts way to quick. One blade is enough for one board. I also figured out that lifetime of blades depend upon sidewall material. The worst thing is ABS. It melts really fast and plastic stuck in between blade teeth and it makes really hard to cut flash. UHMWPE is much better in this regard. I do not know how urethane will show itself.
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