Forum Index

 
 FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 

WRONG 2017
Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic     Forum Index -> Journals: Log Your Ski Building Progress
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
Gilo



Joined: 03 Feb 2013
Posts: 60
Location: Somerset - the flatlands

PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2018 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The finish looks really great Gav - what's your recipe on veneer? I use a 3 coat wet epoxy on wet epoxy. I then polish it using various grades of wet and dry. I get an absolute mirror finish. I tend to make skis, and the problem I have is that they chip very badly - any views?

Gilo
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
gav wa



Joined: 18 Feb 2014
Posts: 355
Location: Perth

PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 6:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah veneer durability isn't as good as the plastic type topsheets.
I have found a couple of ways to improve it a bit.

I mix up about 50 grams of resin and then thin it right down with about 10% ( so 5 grams) of acetone and then brush it into the veneer. Work it in so it soaks right through it. Can add more acetone if you need it to soak through more.
I then put it in my press and press it flat with light pressure and normal epoxy cure heat. When you pull it from the press leave it in the cassette to cool, otherwise it will curl right up out of shape. You can let it cool in the press if you want.
You will end up with a much tougher veneer that is nice and flat and really easy to work with.

If you are finding the epoxy topcoat is chipping you are using an epoxy that is too hard or the coat is too thick maybe.
What resin do you use? It's not West System is it? Boat resin is usually really hard.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
gav wa



Joined: 18 Feb 2014
Posts: 355
Location: Perth

PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 6:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh and i grind the sidewall with two angles.
The first angle is the normal angle then i add a nice sized 45 degree all around. The flatter angle around the top seems to protect the edge of the veneer a lot more.

The topcoat on that latest board is a polyurethane clear coat. I've used epoxy and polyurethane. I prefer the polyurethane.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
gav wa



Joined: 18 Feb 2014
Posts: 355
Location: Perth

PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2018 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

24Dave wrote:
hey Gav, the red board looks great!

Regarding approach skis, We rode every approach ski - snowshoe variation we could think of for the decade before splits came out here in Utah in the mid 90s. If you are climbing and breaking trail in good snow they really make little sense. It is just too redundant to have wide approach skis on your feet with a board on the back. Especially since you can make your own sub 6 pound splitboards. I'm not trying to rain on your parade, but I think that you might quickly put a pair of well-engineered approach skis in a dusty corner after comparing a day with them versus a day on a really light split.

Maybe the cloth hinge could be a part of a superlight 3 or four piece split like Phenix makes.


The exception might be if you have superlight, narrow approach skis and are climbing in firm to shallow snow like the guys in Italy do, they are probably pretty good. But if they are superlight Balsa-Paulownia-carbon deals, will the swing weight be so bad to require folding? Also you really don't need length in those kids of conditions.

There are a few touring routes here in Utah with a longer low angle approach that puts you right at the foot of a steep wall where you could argue it is more efficient to get there on superlight skinny xc skis, then leave those at the base and put in a vert track if you repeat the climb three times or more on the vert track. Back when we had altimeter watches we probably had our fastest ascent rates over the whole day from re-using a vert staircase several times. That may have changed since splitboards got into the five pound range, we don't know.

But generally we go from place to place and break more trails that aren't all super steep all the way and want the freedom to not go back to the same spot where skis may have been left on the way out. The guy behind Mountain approach had a prototype out there with fabric hinges, but my guess is the market doesn't want it because it's just more weight and expense.


Hey Dave I tried to message you but it won't go through. Is your inbox full?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
falls



Joined: 27 Oct 2009
Posts: 1439
Location: Wangaratta, Australia

PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 12:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The drag racing board looks great!

When you do the 2 sidewall angles are you doing the first with the router base running on the base of the board and the second running the router base along the top of the board to get the 45 chamfer all the way around the board, or just doing both with the router running on the base?

I've started doing the first one at 7.5 degrees with the router running on the base and a top bearing trim bit then doing the next at 15 or 25 degrees the same way, but around the tip and tail you don't get a good bevel. I've been thinking about using a bottom bearing 45 chamfer bit after the initial 7.5 or 15 degree full sidewall bevel and running the bottom bearing along the sidewall and the router on the top of the ski to get an even 45 bevel all the way along, but worried the contour of the top of the ski might make this difficult. It's hard to experiment at the last step because noone wants to stuff up a ski/board after all that work.
_________________
Don't wait up, I'm off to kill Summer....
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
gav wa



Joined: 18 Feb 2014
Posts: 355
Location: Perth

PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2018 6:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

To be honest dude I do it all by hand. I have some flap discs I fit to my 5 inch angle grinder and I do the whole job holding the grinder in one hand.
I spent quite a bit of my time with a grinder in my hand cutting or shaping steel for work and it becomes quite normal to pick an angle and be able to get a pretty accurate finish all the way around.
I do the whole sidewall at 20 degrees and then cut the top 1 third at about 40 degrees.

I have stuffed up a board very early in the journey doing exactly like you describe and never again bro. If I had a nice little trim router I would probably give it another go, but trim most of it back with the grinder first so the trim router is an easy little clean up and doesn't catch and grab trying to ruin my finished piece. HAHA
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
falls



Joined: 27 Oct 2009
Posts: 1439
Location: Wangaratta, Australia

PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2018 12:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah the old slip with the router on the final sidewall pass is a fairly brutal moment to swallow.
_________________
Don't wait up, I'm off to kill Summer....
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
mammuth



Joined: 28 Oct 2014
Posts: 286
Location: somewhere in the alps

PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2018 3:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

LOL, these are the famous 2 adrenaline kicks you get with building:

1. The moment you open the press
2. The moment you do the last finishing touches
_________________
Tom
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic     Forum Index -> Journals: Log Your Ski Building Progress All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4
Page 4 of 4

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum


Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group