Jonrezz’s Build Log

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chrismp
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Re: Jonrezz’s Build Log

Post by chrismp »

With the tilt base router you still have a bearing on your router bit. It's basically the same bit you use in your router table setup.
mammuth
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Location: somewhere in the alps

Re: Jonrezz’s Build Log

Post by mammuth »

The thing with the lower rolls is that with a table you have no good points to slide the ski over, thats where chrismp hump is coming from. With my bigger, longer and partly more cambered boards chrismp setup didnt work so well for me, i had to press the ski down to decamber it, otherwise it would slide over the router bearing and ... you know the rest of the story.

So my idea was no table at all, 2 rollers (spaced 20-30cm, length of rolls = wider then your skis/boards) on bottom and one pressure roller on top. For the pressure roller you can take inline skater or skateboard wheels. For the bottom rollers keep it simple, take a piece of a pipe (seamless inside, maybe copper heating pipe) and stick it over some rods. Or take two rods with bearing on both ends.

Which step youre talking about? You can do a step as well with the hand routed version, depends on your bit. I use 2 blade (replaceable) bits with bearing on top. The bearing has a little bit spacing to the blades, so this will make the step for you. If we are talking about the same step ;)
Tom
mammuth
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Re: Jonrezz’s Build Log

Post by mammuth »

One more thing :)

With your angled router bit you dont need a router with tilt base. Just put it in your hand held router and do it manually.

Afaik the main reason chrismp did build his setup (and i tried too) was the lack of angled router bits with bearing. In his setup the router is mounted at an angle under the table.
Tom
Jonrezz
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Re: Jonrezz’s Build Log

Post by Jonrezz »

Thanks for the tips guys! I think I'm going to try to modify it with the bottom and top rollers like you suggest mammoth.

I'd also like to share the project I've been working on and just got working a little while ago!

After how the laser cut inlay worked out really well, I decided to extend the laser from it's original max cutting/engraving length of 400 mm to 8 feet!

This is the original machine:

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I replaced the black 40x20 extrusion with an 8' one:

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But that length of 40x20 on it's side was not very rigid - it vibrated like a rubber band in the middle - so I attached a roller wheel to the underside of the carriage:

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I used 4 and 6 strand plenum wire to extend the motor and laser connections:

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here it is with the cat track rolling around!

https://i.imgur.com/uSwsFze.mp4

Gonna me interesting testing it out! I still need to figure out the software side of it - I'm hoping it's as simple as changing the canvas size in lightburn.. I'm going to attempt another pair of veneer inlayed skis, but this time not just at the tip of them!

Cheers!
mammuth
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Re: Jonrezz’s Build Log

Post by mammuth »

Look into GRBL code $130-$132 ;)
Tom
Jonrezz
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Re: Jonrezz’s Build Log

Post by Jonrezz »

Thanks for the recommendation! I got it working in lightburn with a couple hours of googling though - you can edit the grbl settings right in the laser software!

here she is on her maiden voyage:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=knX5fdiENtM

cutting the topsheet for my next pair now! will post updates when it's done. gonna take a while - about 20 cuts, some with engraving too and then veneer tape them all together. 8)
Jonrezz
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Re: Jonrezz’s Build Log

Post by Jonrezz »

Here's the first top-sheet I've created with the new 8' long laser! Fit is pretty good - there are a few spots that have larger gaps than I'd like, but I'd say overall I'm happy with it. I think the gaps were caused by the background veneer - I went with a paper backed for it, but what I didn't anticipate was trying to get the paper backed stuff to sit flat while being laser cut was really challenging, it just seems to have this natural bow that's impossible to get out. the natural/unbacked stuff is way easier to work with IMO. anyway - This will be the top-sheet for a twin tip ski I'm working on right now 8) :

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mattman
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Re: Jonrezz’s Build Log

Post by mattman »

That looks great! I would expect any gaps (which I don’t even notice) to close up some when pressed flat. Separately, I bet if you put a low tack film over the veneer, it could vacuum flat, like a CNC bed.
Jonrezz
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Re: Jonrezz’s Build Log

Post by Jonrezz »

Thanks Matt! I've been pre-occupied with a couple other house related projects that my finace wants done, but I'll update the thread when I get around to pressing them!

I think I'm going to go with purple bases for these, but I did manage to find some sintered blue base material recently on skilab which I'm super excited about because blue has been out of stock all year! decisions..
Jonrezz
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Re: Jonrezz’s Build Log

Post by Jonrezz »

Hey! Hope everyone's been well.

So I finally got around to building these! :D Here they are:

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Overall I'm pretty happy with them. A couple lessons learned though -

1. I really need to flatten the veneer better before attempting the inlays - some of my leafs and flowers didnt line up great and it shows. Doesn't look bad from a distance though.

2. I nicked the sidewall with the router while I was doing the final bevel. outside of that though, I think I'm getting the hang of doing it by hand.

3. The poured epoxy finish for the topsheet was a nightmare. go back to either 2 part poly or oil+wax finish. the epoxy went down uneven and took hours of sanding to get relatively flat. I think one last thing I might try is - press the ski, put a layer of fiberglass veil ontop and spread the CLR epoxy over the veil - similar to how they make surfboards. dunno. anyone have experience doing that? With the direct pour method it came out extremely blotty and uneven, I think because I was trying to make the thinnest finishing layer possible. It took hours and hours of sanding to get it even close to flat, and there's a couple spots where I sanded a hair too deep and they're lighter in tone now.

I've got a couple more cores made up, just deciding what to do for graphics! will post updates as I progress.

Cheers!
-Jon
Jonrezz
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Re: Jonrezz’s Build Log

Post by Jonrezz »

For my next build, It's a 145 cm snowboard with serrated edges, hybrid camber & olive ash veneer topsheet that I finished with teak oil and polyurethane! The core is 2.5 mm at the tips, 6 mm underfoot & 5 mm in the center. 6 parallel carbon fiber tows between the feet and 1" wide carbon fiber strips from the outside binding inserts diagonally to the end of the running edges. It resulted in a good stiffness for a 5'6" rider who weights about 120 lbs.

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here's the core & edges:

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I like to pre-bend the edges face up before attaching to the base so that it just needs minor tweaks once it's upside down.

here's the edges going on:

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and the raw veneer:

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The veneer required 4 days to flatten because it was too kinked to go straight to pressing. I used supersoft from veneersupply to flatten it. (The beer was for extra flattening weight):

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materials laid out, ready to press:

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here it is in the press! I need to replace the exhaust filter on my vacuum pump:

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The veneer didn't soak all the way through with epoxy so I fixed it with teak oil:

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here it is after cutting out and a couple more coats of teak oil:

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laser engraving:

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camber & sidewall shot: (I'm very happy with how the sidewalls came out this time! I finally routed them without accidentally gouging the board/ski!!! :D :D :D )

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some finished pics. the only thing I'm not crazy about is how much of the insides you can see through the base - I think next time I will have to try whitewashing the top of the base material before pressing.

I used magnetic inserts for a couple of them so that it was easy to find with some metal powder.

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and that's this build! I feel like I'm really getting the hang of this! 8)
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mattman
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Re: Jonrezz’s Build Log

Post by mattman »

It came out great - congrats! Your vacuum setup looks really nice. With the frame open, what is the film that appears to contour over each rib?
Jonrezz
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Re: Jonrezz’s Build Log

Post by Jonrezz »

Thanks! That's just a couple layers of standard 3.5 mil plastic from the hardware store painting section - The epoxy squeezes out the end of the board and runs into the channels under the aluminum cassette between the tip and tail blocks, so the plastic just protects the camber mold from getting epoxied together. I reuse the plastic when I can because the epoxy peels right off the plastic after - I just need to check it carefully for holes each time. A couple builds back I had a hole in the plastic and had to recut a couple mold sections that got stuck together.

here's what the bottom of the cassette looks like after a press:
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24Dave
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Re: Jonrezz’s Build Log

Post by 24Dave »

thanks for posting. I have some veneers that resist perfectly flat laminations with vacuum bagging. I have a question: with the supersoft product are the veneers dry after being pressed? I was wondering if lamination strength would be compromised if the veneer was saturated with this softener.

Do you press the veneer with absorbent layers when flattening with supersoft?

thanks,
Dave
24Dave
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Re: Jonrezz’s Build Log

Post by 24Dave »

You are rubbing your aluminum layer with mold release (like car wax) before laminating so the epoxy will just flake off right? I started building before the internet and was amazed to later learn of mold release and baking paper for epoxy control.
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