Awhile back there was a question asked about router bits for trimming the sides of skis, and someone threw up a source for a bit or cutter that was like a dovetail bit with a bearing on the bottom (shaft side) of the bit. I have tried a few searches without success, and I looked threw all of the forums trying to see if I could find a relevant topic. If I recall the bit/cutter had a ½” spindle with the guide bearing mounted first when a cutter with the small dia. mounted against that with some spacers and a bolt on top holding the hole thing together.
It made the sidewall trimming operation easier and a bit safer than the tilting table, which I made to use with a flush trim bit.
Thanks for the help
Hafte
Router bit for trimming the side cut
Moderators: Head Monkey, kelvin, bigKam, skidesmond, chrismp
http://www.grafsnowboards.com/index.php?url=finishing
Is the only one I know. I have also searched for this answer. The big woodworking store locally (Reno) has also come up dry. Best of luck on this search.
Is the only one I know. I have also searched for this answer. The big woodworking store locally (Reno) has also come up dry. Best of luck on this search.
I purchases a bit from Lowes (?). I don't know much about the names of the bits but it is just a straight bit with two cutters and a bearing on the shaft side of the bit. I mounted the router to the underside of plywood, made a jig that sits at an angle. next lign it up with the router table (plywood). Slide the ski across and it cuts the angle. The bearing runs on the edge then the cutter cuts the angle you have built into the jig.
The jig is just two pieces of ply held together with hinges (two), then I screwed a piece of scrap wood to the underside to create the angle desired.
Here is the article that explaines it much better. The only difference is I used a block of wood instead of the screws for adjusting the angle.
http://www.skibuilders.com/articles/sidewalljig.shtml
rockaukum
The jig is just two pieces of ply held together with hinges (two), then I screwed a piece of scrap wood to the underside to create the angle desired.
Here is the article that explaines it much better. The only difference is I used a block of wood instead of the screws for adjusting the angle.
http://www.skibuilders.com/articles/sidewalljig.shtml
rockaukum
Idris, I knew I saw that thing somewhere. It looks like a spindle with chamfer bit flipped over, and a guide bearing added. I have an old grizzly tool catalog and found something like that, but didn’t like the 30 and 45 degree slope on the cutter. I thought it would be too much... well more than I have used in the past. I went to the grizzly site and did not see that cutter. I’ll make a call and see if they still have one like I saw in the catalog.
Rockaukum, I made about the same setup, but had trouble with a stable angle adjustment. I went and looked at that article again this weekend and saw the bolts in the T-nut as the adjuster this time. I have fixed my angled table and it seems better. I’ll know here in a week or two when I have something ready to trim. I made a safety cover for mine too. I just felt like the cutter was too exposed and I was going into it at any moment. It even has a vacuum port to suck up the dust.
BTW, how are y'all dealing with the shape of the ski on this. I made the table the ski runs on about 5" wide so I wouldn't have to press the camber out as the ski was fed through, but the tip and tail hit the level part of the table and cause some grief at times. I'm trying to come up with a way to use a 1/2" 4 flute spiral cutter and a fence to guide the edge if I can’t find that bit mentioned above.
Thanks guys
Hafte
Rockaukum, I made about the same setup, but had trouble with a stable angle adjustment. I went and looked at that article again this weekend and saw the bolts in the T-nut as the adjuster this time. I have fixed my angled table and it seems better. I’ll know here in a week or two when I have something ready to trim. I made a safety cover for mine too. I just felt like the cutter was too exposed and I was going into it at any moment. It even has a vacuum port to suck up the dust.
BTW, how are y'all dealing with the shape of the ski on this. I made the table the ski runs on about 5" wide so I wouldn't have to press the camber out as the ski was fed through, but the tip and tail hit the level part of the table and cause some grief at times. I'm trying to come up with a way to use a 1/2" 4 flute spiral cutter and a fence to guide the edge if I can’t find that bit mentioned above.
Thanks guys
Hafte
you don`t even have to run the shaft against the edges. my router has some sort of fence on which you can regulate the depth of cutting. so i just have to put the fence in the right distance. then you can run with the fence against the steel edges. way way better than steel on steel!
plywood freeride industries - go ply, ride wood!
How's this one, 14 degrees:
You can buy it at http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5299
EDIT:
Also check out www.woodworker.com, they have a lot of router bits. They also sell bearings that are sized to fit over the shank bits, letting you make custom cinfigurations. I'm thinking of picking up a chamfering bit and a bearing to mount on the top side.
It appears that the only ready made bit close to the one on the graf page is a dovetail pattern bit, like I posted above.
You can buy it at http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5299
EDIT:
Also check out www.woodworker.com, they have a lot of router bits. They also sell bearings that are sized to fit over the shank bits, letting you make custom cinfigurations. I'm thinking of picking up a chamfering bit and a bearing to mount on the top side.
It appears that the only ready made bit close to the one on the graf page is a dovetail pattern bit, like I posted above.
In order for the bit to work the top bearing has to be the same diameter as the top of the cutter head. This is what I use:
Freud [62-103] 1/2" OD by 1/4" ID Replacement Ball Bearing
Freud [22-106] 3/4" Diameter 7-Degree Dovetail Router Bit with 1/4" Shank
Freud [62-331] 1/4" ID Bearing Retaining Collar for Top Bearing Router Bit
With a bit of sanding, you can get the bearing to fit on the shaft all the way down to the top of the cutter head. This only gives a 7 deg taper.
If I want more angle, I'll do a second pass with a 14 deg dovetail bit, and use the bit shaft as the guide. Don't put too much pressure and check the bit often too make sure your not cutting into the shaft.
-kelvin
Freud [62-103] 1/2" OD by 1/4" ID Replacement Ball Bearing
Freud [22-106] 3/4" Diameter 7-Degree Dovetail Router Bit with 1/4" Shank
Freud [62-331] 1/4" ID Bearing Retaining Collar for Top Bearing Router Bit
With a bit of sanding, you can get the bearing to fit on the shaft all the way down to the top of the cutter head. This only gives a 7 deg taper.
If I want more angle, I'll do a second pass with a 14 deg dovetail bit, and use the bit shaft as the guide. Don't put too much pressure and check the bit often too make sure your not cutting into the shaft.
-kelvin