thanks and sliding inserts

For discussions related to ski/snowboard construction/design methods and techniques.

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collin
Posts: 105
Joined: Sun Oct 23, 2005 10:19 pm

Post by collin »

Ok, I'm retarded. That last post was me.
markhr
Posts: 22
Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2005 12:47 pm

Post by markhr »

thin - probably not a problem if they're stamped stainless steel rather than aluminium. You could probably have emachineshop make up some then hacksaw/dremel the slots in either side for flex pattern.

insert distance/track pattern - I thought these were the same? That is, the inserts are fixed by slotting into the track pattern when pulled upwards tightening. The wavy track pattern should be easy enough but you would need to find/modify some existing inserts so that they fit/slide in the track and lock in on tightening.

You could make the Forum system with single sliders by using a wider track and then dremel hexagonal inserts and the bottom surface of the track to create serrations. Machining that out of stainless would be expensive (I think) but might be do-able in Al. That is, exactly spaced serrations on track and then matching serrations either machined into or attached (glue, weld, cover) the insert.

The forum system probably won't flex with the skis/board so a hybrid of the two systems is probably the best bet.

http://mirror06.forumsnowboards.com/ima ... ech_66.jpg
markhr
Posts: 22
Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2005 12:47 pm

Post by markhr »

http://www.mcmaster.com/ - search for "t slot" for tooling, nuts and parts
markhr
Posts: 22
Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2005 12:47 pm

Post by markhr »

at mcmaster.com try "channel" as well although in the brief look I had this was less promising
kelvin
Site Admin
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Joined: Thu Feb 03, 2005 4:56 pm
Location: Jackson Hole

Post by kelvin »

Rockler sell t track (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5325) although I'm not sure it'll be strong enough to hold a binding. Maybe it could be modified and used as a proof of concept. If the track is aluminum and the t-nuts stainless, there might be enough 'bite' into the aluminum that serrations are not needed on the aluminum track.

One issue is that telemark bindings do not have a standard width. Is it the same with alpine bindngs? (i haven't been on one in years) Hammerheads have a wider hole pattern than G3, BD. The 7tms also have different pattern.
If you wanted to make tracks to accomadate alpine, rando, and tele bindings you could have a lot of interference in the tracks.

Kam and I have discussed making a universal binding plate. We would put inserts into the skis, and have a corresponding plate with tracks cut out. Then it would have threaded holes for various bindings. Since we are making the skis, we could put the inserts anywhere and not have it interfere with the binding mount holes.

-kelvin
markhr
Posts: 22
Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2005 12:47 pm

Post by markhr »

Kelvin

It's always going to be a bit of a compromise but at least most tele bindings come with a riser plate. I'd suggest set the tracks up to accomodate your favourite alpine bindings (if there is such a thing) and then make cutting board risers for your telebindings. If you make the risers larger than the tele part you should be able to keep the backwards/forwards adjustability. I'm not sure how this would affect the ski's overall flex pattern though.

If you're just going to slap a plate on then have a look at race plates as these seem to be the lightest and most flexible available. They're usually set up for alpine bindings though.

As far strength goes I haven't heard of anyone ripping the inserts out of Capita or Forum snowboards. I think once the insert is put into the core and then sandwhiched in place by everything else (fibreglass or CF, base, titanal, top sheet ) it'd be pretty hard to rip out.

The bite thing is interesting although I'd rather someone else tried that one out.

The rockler stuff is BIG. I'd suggest trying to get your hands on to/have a look at the capita snowboard that used the sliding inserts. It's the white freestyle one with double swallowtail and signs/labels all over it showing grab position and name. You'll see that the insert is relatively small in witdth but, because it flexes with the ski, the depth probably doesn't matter. That is, you could probably make a stamped/bent steel track insert that fits up through the bottom of the core to prevent pull out and minimise messing around with multiple layers/wooden plugs/spacers.

The t-nuts are pretty much the same as the mcmaster ones.
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